Routes in Vaucluse for selected grade

Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet.

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC.

Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose.

1m right of K.

Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A)

Stunning positions. I was hit by a wave on the lip while bolting in big seas. Either 1) approach 20m left of Bow Wall and climb roped up access rings (16); or

1. Rap in from top 16m: approach via end of Oceanview St, left 20m and over fence, and down into fisherman's cave. Rap off Ubolt on the ground (almost hidden due to the grass growing) and large chipped thread at head height, near the small tree next to the "ramp" that goes into the cave. This will allow you to rap down following the corner and get to the belay ledge, where you'll find 2 Ubolts. Out left and up spacy arete.

as for La Technique then R

rap in as for Hey, sucker, then right