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Rosa Gully south side

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Description

South side of the gully, generally better and drier rock.

Access issues inherited from Rosa Gully

(December 2019) Access to this area is in jeopardy! Following a letter from ACANSW to Waverley Council it would appear that climbing is not prohibited and that council rangers are respecting climbers (and slackliners) who are behaving responsibly but will intervene if they believe that non-climber members of the public are putting themselves at risk (i.e. crossing the fence line to take photos or selfies).

Until such time as ACANSW receives clarification from Council, if you do choose to climb here please ensure you do not linger at the cliff top and wear a helmet to distinguish yourself from the general public.

If you are approached by Council Rangers (who are pretty accommodating) please follow their instructions and report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and ACANSW.

Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Don't create a false alarm.

Approach

Walk down the deep V in the fence and follow the trail down the wet gully. The south side is on the right walking down. The first routes are in the big sandy cave. Routes described as you walk down.

History

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Scary stuff in the 70s, all fixed now

Routes

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Grade Route

Right of cave, start up on metamorphic rock to ledge. Use a short draw or screwgate and a keen belayer past the 3rd bolt.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2019

Project right of Pacific, finishing at Pacific anchors

Middle of big cave wall, 10m R of Harold would Go. Hard start (stickclip 1st ring) then up line past scissor block. Big move to finish. Careful when lowering past the scissor block. Rethreading the rope through the ring just left of it, as a redirect (you're still lowering off the double rings up top), totally avoids this problem.

FA: Jeffrey Crass, 2019

Varied funkiness. Steep corner 2m R of Funky Moves then sandy moves up R to roof (hidden chip to clip high bolt after foot ledge fell on my head), L a move and up. For Eddie Aikau and Harold Holt (who I met 2 weeks before he drowned).

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Interesting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Start up irritating slab or walk R and up into the cave and walk left to the line, step down to bolt belay. Up the line to a double U lower off (or topout to a 3 ring anchor 10m higher over the top). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) Jurds on Toast which probably climbed the start a bit further left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots (still rusting). Sling added after rockfall.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2014

A suicidal route with almost every hold guaranteed to break on you. On the bright side every ascent is unique!

First 2 bolts as for Devils Sandpit, clip the 3rd bolt of TRAAF continue right and up the proud arete that looks great but climbs terribly, on holds that crumble beneath your fingers and toes (clip next bolt and ignore bolt on right of arete, going straight up instead).

Alternatively, traverse in from the walk-in ledge on the right, clipping the bolt on right of arete and going up.

FA: Chris Bennetts-Cash, 21 Feb 2016

Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet.

FA: Michael Law, 2015

2m right of Matt's climb and just left of 3 roofs and a funeral. A burly move to the 2nd bolt then up easily to ledge, leave behind the jugs for slopers up rounded cracks to anchor.

Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam).

Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.

FA: mikl law & matt dunstan, 1978

Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and step right to crack then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this

FA: mikl, 2014

Classic and varied. Same start as Pocks and straight up thin crack and wall above. Claudette Colvin was actually the person who wouldn't give up her seat - see drunk history .

FA: Michael Law, 2015

About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted and straightened out 2014 (originally traversed in from right at roof). There is the old trad 2nd pitch over roof above (17ish).

FA: Michael Law & Garry Eggins, 1979

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Activity

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