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Access: Fines

On 7/8/21 a few climbers got bulk fined for climbing here.

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 weeks ago

Access: Please read access information section!

Access to this area is in jeopardy - please read access information about how you can prevent this area being closed. You may be fined by the police or asked to leave if you do not follow this advice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 5 weeks ago
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Description

The northern wall in the gully.

Access issues inherited from Vaucluse

Access to this area is in jeopardy! Please read this important information before climbing here.

To access this area requires climbing a fence that is marked “Keep out, no access”. This fence has been erected to stop suicides and risky selfie takers. In recent years climbers have been approached by NSW Police and Waverly Council rangers when crossing this fence. In 2021 police have issued fines for climbers crossing this fence during Covid lockdown.

A November 16, 2020 Waverly Council meeting confirmed that climbers are not supposed to be receiving infringement notices for accessing climbing areas but authorities will intervene if they believe that members of the public are putting themselves at risk.

“Council enforcement staff have been applying a discretionary approach to enable rock climbers, slack liners and fisherman to access areas at Diamond Bay and Eastern Avenue Reserve. Rangers will not issue infringement notices to this group of people.”

Police attend more than 50 suicides a year along this coastline. A woman fell to her death whilst partying on the cliff edge of Diamond Bay in 2020 and Council rangers and police have been instructed to stop this happening again. The fence is part of their enhanced community safety plan.

Do not cross the fence in front of walkers and sightseers. Don't create a false alarm by hanging around at the top of the climbing area on the wrong side of the fence. Bystanders may mistake you for a potential jumper and report it. Make it obvious you are a climber by wearing a harness and helmet at all times - put them on in the carpark so there is no confusion about your intentions to outsiders. Always remain harnessed up and attached to anchors when near cliff edges. Be discrete and low key - this is not the place to pose and perform in front of bystanders.

Actively discourage any bystanders from climbing the fence to see what you are climbing or to take selfies. The cliffs are for experienced climbers and slackliners only - not a place for tourists to take photos. As a climber please avoid taking photographs of your mates climbing from the cliff top - this will just encourage non -climbers to join you.

If you are approached by police or rangers please follow their instructions and report any interactions to Sydney Climbers Facebook group and Australian Climbing Association NSW (ACANSW) via email president@nsw.climb.org.au

ACANSW suggests you print out page 5 from the following Waverly Council meeting notes and keep this on you when climbing in the area to show to any police or rangers. https://www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/data/assets/pdffile/0020/187310/DoverHeights_Report_for_Motions_from_November_2020_correct.pdf

ACANSW continues to discuss these access issues with Waverly Council and local police in the hope we can maintain access for climbers in future years.

Ethic inherited from Diamond Bay

A number of climbs feature chipped holds, as well as glued holds.

Routes

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Grade Route

Marked. About 15m right of C, below rounded arete with a chipped hold on its left hand side.

Swing up to the jug on the nose, then continue up the arete (crux) and easier ground to the chossy yellow crack. Up this (with care!) then good moves up and out the steep headwall (take care - there's some biggish loose pieces up here). Top rope only, with a double bolt belay. The left leading corner directly above the mark is about grade 12 up to the headwall (the headwall is about grade 19 or 20). The corner right of the arete is about grade 18 to the headwall.

At the base of the obvious low angled corner crack. A shame the good bit is so short!

Easy moves (often wet) up the low angled corner crack to a stance. Great laybacking on good rock up to and through the small roof to the top (take some fist size cams). Cam and Ubolt belay

FA: Mikl Law, 1972

An ancient, rotting aid route just right of the corner. All that's left are bolt holes and rusty little blobs of metal.

The first of two climbs to traverse the horizontal breaks on the wall.

Up TC to the top break. Follow this right across the wall. Finish up AW.

FA: Mikl Law, 1979

Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

The high traverse route.

Up TC until level with the lower break. Hard move to gain break then follow it right. Finish up AW.

FA: Mikl Law, 1979

Popular. Start as for TC.

Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total.

FA: M. Myers, 1990

Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT.

Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak.

FA: Mikl Law, 1980

2m right of PtC.

Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs.

FA: Mikl Law, 1984

2m right of ObF, hard pull onto wall. Follow the line of manky BRs straight up the wall

FA: Mikl Law, 1980

3m right of M, on large white sloping boulder below chossy arete.

Step onto wall then dangle left around the arete. Head up the wall, trending right to stay near the arete.

Rebolted with 8 U bolts and new anchors. (June 2012)

FA: Mikl Law, 1980

Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Start about 25 m R of Acute What on white choss wall. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.

  1. 6m Up to ledge (manky BB).

  2. 19m (25) Head up to corner, passing loose block (manky BR and cams). Head up the wall just right of the corner, tending right over the void (rusty BRs; take a wire to protect the second). Manky BB for the belay.

FA: mikl law, 1984

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