Showing all 32 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Wall | |||||
22 | WP
Marked. About 15m right of C, below rounded arete with a chipped hold on its left hand side. Swing up to the jug on the nose, then continue up the arete (crux) and easier ground to the chossy yellow crack. Up this (with care!) then good moves up and out the steep headwall (take care - there's some biggish loose pieces up here). Top rope only, with a double bolt belay. The left leading corner directly above the mark is about grade 12 up to the headwall (the headwall is about grade 19 or 20). The corner right of the arete is about grade 18 to the headwall. | 16m | |||
16 | ★ The Corner
At the base of the obvious low angled corner crack. A shame the good bit is so short! Easy moves (often wet) up the low angled corner crack to a stance. Great laybacking on good rock up to and through the small roof to the top (take some fist size cams). Cam and Ubolt belay FA: Mikl Law, 1972 | 18m | |||
D
An ancient, rotting aid route just right of the corner. All that's left are bolt holes and rusty little blobs of metal. | 18m | ||||
19 | ★★ Blood and Iron
The first of two climbs to traverse the horizontal breaks on the wall. Up TC to the top break. Follow this right across the wall. Finish up AW. FA: Mikl Law, 1979 | 18m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ What'll the Neighbours Think
Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
21 | Flesh and Steel
The high traverse route. Up TC until level with the lower break. Hard move to gain break then follow it right. Finish up AW. FA: Mikl Law, 1979 | 25m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★★ Violet Town
Popular. Start as for TC. Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total. FA: M. Myers, 1990 | 18m, 8 | |||
24 M1 | Punch the Clock
Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT. Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak. FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Ordeal by Fur
2m right of PtC. Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs. FA: Mikl Law, 1984 | 18m, 8 | |||
27 | Moore
2m right of ObF, hard pull onto wall. Follow the line of manky BRs straight up the wall FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 7 | |||
22 | ★★ Acute What
3m right of M, on large white sloping boulder below chossy arete. Step onto wall then dangle left around the arete. Head up the wall, trending right to stay near the arete. Rebolted with 8 U bolts and new anchors. (June 2012) FA: Mikl Law, 1980 | 18m, 8 | |||
25 | Spurting Wildly
Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Start about 25 m R of Acute What on white choss wall. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.
FA: mikl law, 1984 | 20m | |||
Diamond Bay Southside | |||||
25 | Rabies
6m left of Wag's Effort, below jug on lip. A major thrash through 4 roofs and a mid-life crisis. Muscle up and leftward past bird crap, glued on holds and 9 RBs. FA: Mikl Law, 1988 | 20m, 9 | |||
20 | Wag's Effort
Start below the corner at the right hand end of the big cave. Up the bird shit encrusted corner and skirt right around the roof to an old rap station. FA: Dave Wagland, 1985 | 10m | |||
26 | Fade
2m right of Wag's Effort. Swarm up arete, balancy over roof with unique suction move, then up wall past a thin crux. 6 RBs to double RB lower off. FA: Mikl Law, 1990 | 20m, 6 | |||
18 | ★ Honeycomb Arete
Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same! FA: Ness, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Iron Lady
Up easy corner (right of 'Honeycomb Arete') and sustained through the crack corner above ledge at half height. FA: Warwick Baird, 1980 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Two Succulent Young Men With a Taste for the Bizarre
Two meters right of 'Iron Lady' Strenuous start, then straight up through 6 RBs. Awkward layaway to to double RB belay. FA: Paul Hoskins & Nic Collyer, 1984 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★ Redneck Brother
Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose. FA: Dave Wagland, 1980 | 18m, 6 | |||
24 | ★ Mompox
Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping. FA: mike law, 1996 | 12m, 5 | |||
20 | ★★ Gloucester Buckets
Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing final BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping. Seeps for a week after heavy rain. FA: Mikl Myers, 1990 | 12m, 5 | |||
24 | Bringing a Blush to the Snow
2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
20 | Gravel Pit Road
Start in the middle of wild cactus. Straight up past manky BR's FA: Geoff Weigand, 1980 | 16m, 2 | |||
A
Around to the left of descent ladder. Two very rusted bolts visible. No other pro. | 2 | ||||
18 | B
Below the arete 3m left of LP. A variety of interesting and tricky starts, then easily up the twin seams. Recommended to lower off from the first ledge. Only known to have been top roped, but it might be leadable on gear. | 10m | |||
16 | ★ LP
The obvious short corner and roof about 10m right of the ladder. Small wires up the corner and through the roof (a #3 camalot is useful). Up past large ledge to DUB lower offs. FA: Mikl Law, 1972 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Sleazy Mission
The following five routes are all on the north facing black wall that disappears into the chasm. The wall can be quite greasy and the base can be flooded after prolonged rain. Funky and desperate. 3m right of LP, at the undercut arete. Delicate moves up the arete (2 RBs), then finish up the corner above. 2 RBs anchor. (Solo on F/A, then retrobolted) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Kangasplat
0.5m right of SM. Bouldery moves up the blank wall then left to SM (RB), or continue up right (no pro). No protection down low. (Solo on F/A) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 1 | |||
23 | Small Pox
1m right of K. Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A) FA: Mikl Law, 1985 | 10m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Thin
0.5m right of SP, below thin crack. Great climbing up the crack (wires, manky PR, BR) and wall to the chossy break (BR). Continue up the pleasant grey wall above (large BR - some bolt brackets don't fit) to the chossy break just below the top. Natural belay (take slings). Would be worth 2 stars if it had a little less choss! FA: Mikl Law, 1979 | 15m, 3 | |||
S
Marked. 3m right of T at the blocky corner perched above the filthy pond. Don't know where it goes exactly! Straight up looks unprotected and reasonably difficult. Following the ramp to the right up the gully then up the upper corner looks unpleasant. | 15m | ||||
C
Opposite T. A line of chips that finishes at the first choss break. No pro. | 8m |
Showing all 32 routes.