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Access: Ebor is recovering from the 2019 bush fires

The park is open but some part are closed and the first lookout is being rebuilt. Avoid the First Breakaway. Details here:

https://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/things-to-do/lookouts/ebor-falls/local-alerts

Burnt lookout pictures from 2019

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 years ago - Edited about a year ago

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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

This cliff is located on the other side of the gorge from all the previously mentioned cliffs. Park at the first car park (as for access to first breakaway), then walk around to the top of the first falls, cross the river and walk up onto the paddock, then along the top for about 50m. Step over the fence and scramble down past an old bottle dump. The cliff is just around the next corner. It is generally 6-10m in height. Climbs are described from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: The first crack line you come to.

Up wall to ledge, bridge right off tree to get into crack. Follow this to top.

FA: Larry Dixon & Mark Spence, 1986

Start: left of ‘Damp Monkeys’.

Bridge up to tree/bush, step left onto block, continue as for Broken Glass.

Start: Left of ‘Throwdown’.

Thin crack to block, then bridging and jamming.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1987

Start: Left of broken Glass’.

Up the curving, leaning crack

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987

Start: Left of ‘Bottle Shop’.

Up crack, reach right into another crack. Bridging and jamming.

FA: Larry Dixon & Mark Spence, 1986

Start: Twin cracks left of Dynamicus.

Up the twin cracks.

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987

Start: Left of ‘Stubby’.

Up the curving crack with slight bulge.

Start: Left of ‘On the Piss’.

Onto block then up twin cracks.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1987

Start: Left of ‘Seedy’.

Up twin cracks, difficult at top.

Start: 1m left of Hangover.

Up hand/fist crack.

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1988

Start: On the bushy ledge.

Bridge up the alcove.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1987

Right up slab with rasberrries into fist crack

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 19 Jul 2020

FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 19 Jul 2020

Hop onto the block, then traverse across the angled slab, and then the real route starts half way up. Great gear and a spicy finishes

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 19 Jul 2020

Has a perfect starting hand crack the eases into the top. Probably should have a star if it was cleaned fully.

FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 19 Jul 2020

Great route which looks very offwidth but is quite accessible. Finish directly to top instead of following the crack as it curves to the right.

FA: Ben Vincent, Brendan Heywood & Phil, 19 Jul 2020

Arete route with a mixed bag of everything. Thin layback then up arete through several horizontals

FA: Phil, Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 19 Jul 2020

Up fist crack onto ledge, then up wider crack with great knees

FA: Ben Vincent, 19 Jul 2020

Start on shoulder high block, up twin cracks then right onto ledge (crux) then up left crack

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 5 Jul 2020

Up the perfect left splitter and step right on top of column. Gradually gets harder until the spicy finish

FA: Brendan Heywood & Ben Vincent, 5 Jul 2020

Up the wider fist crack. Slightly off-width in parts and a steep finish. Eats blue cams.

FA: Ben Vincent, 5 Jul 2020

Left of the little rooflet, up clean splitter with block at 1/3rd height

FA: Ben Vincent & Brendan Heywood, 5 Jul 2020

Up widening hand-fist crack then into thinner crack to roof, through hand crack bulge over the roof with a spicy finish.

Layback and stem up thin technical crack, then through hand crack to a chimney rest. Then traverse right on fists and slopers through the stunningly improbable cavelet which is an intermittent falcon nest and then linking into the last move of Tree Beard

Up a perfect hand splitter. Will become the classic warm up on the cliff

Up a good hand crack past native raspberries, into cruxy rooflet, then flaring jams to top

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Jan 2022

Shares the start with 'Booster Transfer', Up the right crack

FA: Ben Vincent, 14 Jan 2022

3m up to left, then up the left fist crack widening to offwidth. Avoiding the right crack

A stellar test piece. Start 5m R of ST. Up the sustained finger crack to roof. Step R and bust straight up over the bouldery bulge through obvious features.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 Feb 2023

FFA: Ben Vincent, 9 Feb 2023

Stonking good hand jams up to the top of the pillar, then an easy slab to tree belay

Up easy crack to crux bulge, then carefully through the little roof

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Tue 18 Apr
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