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The West Side Ridge

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 32
16

Seasonality

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Description

Spread out on the ridge are quite a few boulders, some large. A few are individually named, such as Shark Fin Boulder, Split Cwym Boulder and the Neurone Circuit - itself a collection of fairly large boulders almost directly due west from Goog Gap.

© (mjw)

Access issues

Descent from many of these boulders may be problematic unless there is a BB. Counterbalance simul-rapping off either side was used by some climbers in the past.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

An oddly-shaped, clean-edged boulder, located between the Crown and Split Cwym Boulder.

Reverted to lichen.

Up the obvious slabby arete with no protection. FA Joe Friend (solo)

FA: J.Friend, 1977

Prominent tall boulder west of the Crown, which is split north-south by a widening chimney "Like butterfly wings reaching up for the sky".

Start: South end of Split Cwym Boulder.

Chimney as far as you can go, then climb arete of west half of boulder past one gal carrot at 4m.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

Start: East side of large rock on which Split Cwym Boulder rests.

Up obvious and rather dusty crack with poor nut pro to finish on platform at base of Split Cwym Boulder.

FA: D.Taylor, G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

Short but pleasant climb.

Start: West inside of Split Cwym Boulder 2m left of arete. Up past BRs.

FA: B.Stevens, G.de Lacy & D.Taylor, 1989

Start: 3m left of Stairway to Heaven.

Go for 2 small finger holds, a smear, a high step, then straight up - no bridging or cheating stones at the start!

FA: G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

Circular group of large boulders north of Split Cwym Boulder.

Combines a hard start, nice rest, and one of the most delicate and holdless finishes at Tarana.

Start: North face of large square block with Spot the Brain Cell.

Scramble up ledges to large rock platform to access or abseil in. Start 3m right of the corner. Step off small boulder, up wall past 4BR and the large 'wombat hole' in the rock.

FA: D.Taylor, G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

Start: 2m right of Spot the Brain Cell. Take wires! Up to BR, then traverse left almost to arete. Up veering very slightly left. 5BR, 2 of which require wires.

FA: B.Stevens, G.de lacy & D.Taylor, 1990

Reverted to lichen.

Start: Right to left curving crack on the east face in the middle boulder of The Neurone Circuit.

Follow crack to top. New BB (1990)

FA: M.Law & J.Friend, 1977

Start: 4m right of Maverick.

Fingery & technical up to small ledge, trend right from here past 4BR with FH.

FA: G.de Lacy, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988

Good technical face climb.

Start: Left of Spot the Brain Cell on north side of boulder with a tree leaning against its E side.

Straight up wall on good holds past 4 BRs to BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Cuthbertson, 1987

Start: 2m left of Maverick.

Climb up to undercling and surmount this on poor holds to gain a good hold up and right. Straight up to delicate finish.

FA: D.Taylor & G.de Lacy.B.Stevens, 1989

Start: The middle of 3 cracks side by side on the west side of The Neurone Circuit.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

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