Routes in The Dairy

Sit-start on a big sloper on the boulder under the main roof. Climb the arete to finish matched in a pocket.

Uphill from Bovine Nation are several flakes. Sit-start, then climb these up and left to finish on a big triangular jug in an alcove.

To the left of Cowgirls and Indians are some more horizontal flakes. Sit-start, and climb these flakes to jugs, then finish as for Cowgirls and Indians.

The last arete uphill and to the L of Hey Cows. Sit-start on huge jugs, top out through roofy bit.

Climb up the crack under the main roof until you get into an alcove. Lean out to clip the first bolt and then traverse along the slopey rail past another bolt. At the end of the rail, crank around the corner to a crack and top out. Double chain lower-off (after topping out).

Climb the start of WBFTT and continue straight up.

Sit-start just left of Bovine Nation on the sloping ledge. Traverse left to join Cowgirls and Indians.

Start standing on the sloping flat rock around right from Bovine Nation. Reach up to gain high diagonal juggy rail then climb up and around left to first RB. Tricky moves lead to steep leaning crack and 3 more RBs. Double ring lower off.

The middle line to double rings. Can be difficult to reach the starting holds if you're short.

The start of Project C.

The right-hand line. Starting boulder problem has been done at V6, and the headwall with 2 bolts has been done at grade 21.

The L-hand line.

Walk left from the Milkmaid Boulder, this is the first arete you pass. Very easy.

After passing Sirloin you will find a boulder with a distinctive horizontal rail. Traverse this from R to L and then top out.

On the boulder above Drover. Sit-start using the boulder underneath for feet and do a few crimpy moves to top out.

The R-hand arete of the Rawhide boulder.

Walk to the R of Rawhide to find 2 boulders. The crack on the lower boulder.

Walk to the R of Rawhide to find 2 boulders. The crack on the upper boulder.

This is an eliminate where you traverse the wall from R to L without using anything above the horizontal seam (you can use the seam itself). Jump off once you are standing on the rail L of the tree.

Easy problem straight up the middle of the wall (just R of the tree).

Do the low traverse and continue back around via the high traverse to where you started. Good training!

Start standing on the rail just left of the tree. Crimp upwards and R to gain good holds. Traverse R and finish on the R-hand end of the wall.

Start on the ramp L of the tree and climb up using whatever you can find.

In the small gully just below Pasteurised, there is a boulder with a shallow seam running up its R-hand side. Start on the flake out L, then climb the seam.

From the Stringybark boulder, go down the gully on the L to the next tier. This is the obvious arete with an atrocious landing.

Start on arete R of The Rib. Up to choss and then step L into chimney and up.

A little L of the center of the slab is a very shallow R-leaning seam. Start at the bottom of this seam and climb straight up.

Start on the R-hand side of the slab where there is a good foothold. Take the line of least resistance diagonally L and up.

Start as for Slab Happy but go straight up. The top-out is committing (and usually dirty).

Immediately left of "Rolling in The Hay" is a steep, somewhat blank, east-facing wall. Start standing at the left side of this little wall with your right hand on a sharp little 2-finger undercling and left hand on high gaston crimp. Stand up on good smear then follow awkward leaning holds up steep arete for a couple of moves until a radical deadpoint at about 2.5m. Reach up and left to slopey lip, then left again to big side-pull jug. Top-out, sit down and giggle!

The hand-crack with extremely polished sides. Do not stem.

The L arete of the orange wall.

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Start in the chimney on the R of the orange wall. Traverse L across the orange wall and finish up Rolling In The Hay. Unfortunately this problem lost a starting hold in the chimney and is waiting to be re-climbed.

Start as for Sexy Mexican Milkmaids. Traverse left to big hold in centre of wall then finish as for Rolling in The Hay Direct Start.

Start underneath a shallow seam which can be protected by RPs. Crimp up and join Bullfighter at the 2nd bolt.

Crimp up past two FHs and then have a rest before clipping a third FH and negotiating the overhang to a slabby topout. Double ring anchor on top. Excellent quality!

Start in the chimney around to the R of Bullfighter. Traverse R and then topout. A hold has broken but this probably doesn't change the grade.

Sit-start under the little overhang and pull up, move R to a jug and top out.

Above, and to the left of "Lemmings" & "The Power of Faith" stands a tall sharp overhanging arete. Sit start on lowest good holds, then follow the arete up past a decent hold around 3/4 height. Don't pike here but slap up to slopey top, rock over and top out. Watch the landing as the higher you get, the worse it becomes.

The finger-crack on the boulder below Bullfighter.

Below Stockwhip, start at the bulge with good holds and climb jugs to a scary top out.

Start matched on chest-height horizontal rail. Move right and up using good holds. Slap right hand around then up the arete to gain juggy top ridge. Follow this all the way to the top. Top out over highest point. All other blocks except the one you're on are out.

Great first lead. Short bolted slab 2m right of "The Power of Faith". Start standing on top of obvious flake, then up past 3FH to anchors.

Good one for beginners. Sit start and climb up on jugs.

A technical problem starting on the flat edge and going straight up.

Standing start on the R-hand side of the face where it is very undercut. You can barely reach two small crimpers for the hands. Climb straight up.

A tricky sit-start matched on the sloper. Move R to two decent holds and then crimp upwards before going a long way R to get the top of the boulder. Then you just need to mantle like a demon!

The slab at the top of the gully on the R-hand side of the Dairy has 2 bolts.

Below and to the L (looking downhill) from Bigass Bovine Style is a big face with a prominent arete. On the L-hand side of the face, climb the obvious line on good edges.

The obvious tall right- leaning arete. Technically easy for the grade, but a little comitting with a somewhat slopey landing. Stand start at arete proper with right hand on high pinch (smallish edge on arete can be used for right hand instead if preferred). Tricky move up and left to good sidepull, then follow the obvious vertical seam using edges along the way.

Starts around to the R of the arete sitting on a boulder. Start matched on a big diagonal edge. Crank up a crimp ladder to flat tops, then traverse R and step off.

Sit-start on the R hand side of the flake. Traverse L until you can slap up to slopers on the top of the boulder. Traverse L again to jugs and top out.

Sit start at edges, crimp your way to the top and step off.

Climb the crack to a heinous topout.

Standing start in the middle of the face with your hands on good edges. Crimp and smear your way straight up.

Start around to the R of 'Slab Happy', on a small vertical wall. Pull on with difficulty and then move straight up through steeper ground.

Straight up the orange wall. Scary!

Sit-start on the L of the face and climb the jugs.