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The Citadel Proper

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Description

On the lower left (looking from the track) is the "Citadel", a small area surrounded on all 4 sides by boulders. "Flake Route" is obvious from the track. From there, walk L up and around the boulder to find the other problems.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb up to the tree and then climb the layback flake past the FH to the chains.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

The chimney with the tree.

Nice face-climbing up the wall past 3 FHs to anchors. Don't fall clipping the 2nd one. The crack on the L is out of bounds.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

The last section of Kurtis Maximus' Nemesis can be climbed as a separate problem.

Tenuous tips to finger crack. Straight up crack with jugs on left to help the top out.

FA: Steven Martin, 18 Apr 2014

Start at the chimney and traverse L past the finger-crack and then top out. Looks mossy but it's a quality problem.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

The obvious flake visible from the walking track. Committing but easy.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

The arete R of the flake route is a project.

In the amphitheatre. Traverse the face opposite the climbs from R to L until you can step off onto the boulder.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

Climb the wall on the left end of the Citadel Traverse. Technical footwork.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

This is on the boulder which you step onto to finish the Citadel Traverse. Sit start on the slopers on the L arete, climb up and mantle.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

On the little face above Check This Out. Start in the gap with your feet on an edge down low. Crimp and dyno L to the top. Mantle.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

On the little face above Check This Out. Start in the gap with your feet on an edge down low. Crimp and dyno R to the top. Mantle.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

Start where the Citadel Traverse finishes and climb up and to the L, topping out. Bad landing.

FA: Paul Martin, 2000

Traverse the big boulder behind "Jumpin" from R to L.

Climb the centre of the boulder behind "Jumpin"

To the L of "Jase in Space" is a flat-top boulder with lots of graffiti split by a finger-crack (it's the E side of the Pimp Daddy Superstar boulder). Traverse this boulder.

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