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Back of the Citadel

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Description

Around on the back side of the big boulder with "Pimp Daddy Superstar" you'll find a small area with a fig tree and a handful of good problems. Access is either by heading left (if facing the start of Tips Tops) and upwards squeezing awkwardly between fig tree and the wall till you can scramble up a right-leading dirt ramp and gain the area....OR by first scrambling up to "The Corner" then heading leftwards to a short easy downclimb (recommended).

Routes

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Grade Route

On the back of the Pimp Daddy Superstar boulder is a hanging flake (in front of a fig tree). Climb the L side of it.

Climb the R side of the flake of Layaway To Glory.

Sit start on slopers below Problem #20. Balance up to a good stance (but don't use the flake). Crimp R and then head up on sidepulls.

FA: Paul Martin

The L arete of the chimney.

The chimney.

The R arete of the chimney at the rear of the Citadel. Stand start using sharp RH crimp on face (around head height) and left hand on thin sidepull (about 40cm lower) in chimney. Difficult moves lead to sloper and top out. (Sit start yet to be done...)

FA: Ben Mace, 10 Jun 2015

Sit start at the far right end and traverse L as far as possible before mantling.

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