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Description

A world class wall of long test-piece classics in a very unlikely area. The secret is out so get in to sample the delights of the boneyard. Superb winter climbing with camping at the base of the walk.

Access issues

IF A FIXED LINE IS IN-SITU ON THE ABSEIL EXIT PLEASE DO NOT JUG UP IT AS A WAY TO ACCESS THE CRAG. IT TRASHES THE ROPE AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS AS YOU CAN NOT INSPECT THE LINE UNTIL YOU GET TO THE TOP!

Approach

Walk along the dirt road veering slightly left and then back right past the container. Continue straight until you see pink and orange marking tape that shows a track that winds its way around the side of the cliff. Walk up this for a bit longer than you'd like to until, nearing the top, you get to a massive fallen over dead tree with cairns leading off to the right. Follow this track along, down a fixed rope, and around to the ledge where the in-situ lines start. Fire in the Sky and Smoke on the Water are here just above the rap station and the main Boneyard in all her glory is accessed by traversing these fixed ropes and doing the 10m jumar to the ledge. Please stay roped up.

History

History timeline chart

Route descriptions and further info 'Climb Tasmania' Gerry Narkowicz.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

These first two routes are on the lower ledge on the walk in.

Starts up Fire in The Sky heads left on rings.

FA: Paul Thomson, 9 Jan 2015

The easiest sport route in the area, technical face climbing.

Jug the 10m fixed rope to access the main ledge of glory.

Stay leashed to the fixed ropes at all times, and wear a helmet..

The line above the jumar approach. Mixed, long, sustained and hard for the grade. There are two way to climb at the crux, out left to the bolts gives the route it's grade. Climbing directly up the crack is considered much closer to 25+ but much better.

FFA: Andrew Martin, 2012

Takes the wall between Redneck Love and Heaven Can Wait. The climb shares a few holds with Heaven Can Wait however the upper crux is completely independent. A midway rest (where a delicate no hander can be fashioned) keeps the grade sensible.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 5 Jan 2019

The standard warm-up. Long and sustained face climbing.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2011

The direct line of bolts branching to the right off Heaven Can Wait at its 4th bolt.

Thinner, more technical and equally as good as Heaven Can Wait, but compromised by the ability to step into the crack of Latex Evening to gain a no hands rest. Superb climbing.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 7 Apr 2012

The supposed polar opposite of a Velvet Morning. The prominent crack bordering the orange.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

The line immediately right of the big crack bordering the orange shield.

Several powerful moves low down followed by a sustained section of insecure slab climbing up the orange shield. Then a heartbreaking crux over the final roof.

FFA: Chris Coppard, 25 Mar 2012

"A mind-bending excursion up the awesome orange shield"

Follow the orange crack on to the face then out the top roof. World class.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011

Hard for the grade, but worth the effort. Named for the Subtitle (secondary title) to the Jane Fonda softcore porno: Barbarella.

Links the lower half of Barbarella into the upper part of Velvet Morning via 4 new bolts and 8m of new (and tough) face climbing, eliminating the rests on both routes in the process.

Climb Barbarella to the 7th bolt, and continue through the Shield crux to where it traverses sharply right (just before the 8th bolt). Straight up via new bolt, and continue up passing 3 more bolts to rejoin Velvet Morning at the undercling jug (hold shared with Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs). Step left into Velvet morning passing 3 bolts, and the nails roof-turn to the anchor.

Climbs the R-trending diagonal line on the orange shield. Crosses Chainsaws, Guns and Dogs then finishes at the same anchors.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2013

Climbs the left leaning crack from the big guano patch up onto the orange wall then head back right 5m and out to the barbarella anchor.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

Straight up the awesome red wall after the first few bolts of White Powder. Should clock in at around 33.

Set: Garry Phillip's

Climbs White Powder to the bolt before the rest and then step leftwards into Garry's other project and finish up that. Very sustained.

Set: Garry Phillips

Hard man power endurance up a fantastic line. Stay out of the corner.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012

Climb White Powder to the 7th bolt. The best warmup for the Boneyard.

FA: Garry Phillips

Climbs Vapour Trail to the first anchors then left via a V5 boulder.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2012

Climb Vapour Trail for 25m to a DBB. Make sure you go to the anchor on the left and not the one for Give A Dog A Bone. Sustained climbing, big moves on big holds.

Harder then it looks..

Climb Vapour Trail then head far right via a steep boulder problem.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2013

Start up Passchendaele then break left up thin jamb crack to lower off.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz & Ingvar Lidman, 2012

1 25 30m
2 22 20m

One of the best steep cracks anywhere in Australia. The first pitch is Tassie's answer to Trojan and the second is a rarely done but worthwhile 22 bolted face pitch.

  1. 30m (25) Up the obvious steep crack in the middle of the cliff. Brilliant gear and moves trend gradually rightwards to finish at a DBB.

  2. 20m (22) Up the face on good but slightly dirty rock.

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2011

Start up Angel Of Pain (26), then cross over Passchendaele (0.75 and 0.5 cam) and move left to gain the upper section of Legends Never Die. Super sustained with a desperate crux below the anchors on flailing arms.

FFA: garry phillips, 24 May 2014

Climb the thin grey crack right of Passchendaele then join it at its upper crux and anchor

FFA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2012

Madness up the steep and very blank wall. Should be very hard.

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

FFA: Invgar Lidman, Jun 2011

Another brilliant line of powerful dead points and amazing side pulls, the top section is no cake walk either.

FFA: Ingvar Lidman, 2012

Now open project, Direct start to 2 fast 2 Furious Thin, powerful and sick climbing

Sustained excellent climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

Finger crack to lower off.

Powerful boulder climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

The last current climb on the wall, technical fingery climbing.

FFA: Garry Phillip's, 2011

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