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Description

Orange and black face on the far right side of Bare Rock.

Access issues inherited from Bare Rock

Bare Rock is situated on private land.

Due to increased traffic major repairs to the access road are occuring over the next few weeks. This work started today (16/05/2019).

Part of the process is that the material used needs to get quite wet and then dry for a number of days before it properly 'sets'. To use it before then will result in heaps of damage / erosion and us then needing to redo the whole thing. This will be quite a pricey project, please do not make the kind people undertaking it do it twice!

Please can any parties coming to Bare Rock over the next few weeks park at the very bottom of the driveway (just before the steep 'pinch' bit; about 200m from the white gate) and walk up the remainder of the way. Alternatively, you can drive to the top from Avoca or from West of Fingal at the roadwork site office.

Please also be sure to keep the neighbours road access clear at all times. This is essential.

Approach

Accessed by scrambling up the right-hand side of Bare Rock via a loose gully. Alternatively by climbing Tomorrow's Dream or The Nameless King, and traversing right on easy terrain past several bolt and chain.

It's also possible to rap-in from the top. The rap point above the climbs can be seen from a position on the righthand side (looking in) at the top of Bare Rock, perpendicular to the Supernaut face. The top of the cliff is now signposted so the anchor should be reasonably easy ti find.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts 7m left of Into the Void. Ramble up the slab. Then do a techo sequence of moves to get into the roof. Powerful moves through this and the corner above. Traverse left and up to the chains of Master of Puppets.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2013

Your friend and mine. Starts up Peppa Pig but at the top of the corner head up and right past 3 BR.

FA: Garry Phillips, 2014

Ludicrous steepness in an intimidating position.

  1. 25m (26) Start just left of Faeries Wear Boots/Into the Void, and right of the ramp start to Peppa Pig. Stick clip 2nd bolt. Be careful clipping 3rd bolt. Up through the steeps and then left left left forever covering some outrageous terrain.

  2. 30m (20) A worthwhile pitch in its own right that can be rapped into from the top if you aren't up for pitch one.

FA: Andrew Martin, 12 Apr

Pitch one was recently freed at 26. These two routes should probably be combined.

Pitch 2 can be climbed as a worthwhile single pitch at 30m gr20 by rapping from anchors 10m right (looking out) of the top of Supernaut to a semi-hanging belay in an open-book corner above The Great Roof.

Atmospheric face climbing, getting progressively harder the whole way.

FA: Andrew Martin

The route on the left of the face rising leftwards out to the arete above the big roof. Start 10m down left of Supernaut and belay on the abseil chains on the slab. Up 4 bolts via the steep face (25) to stance at the base of the right trending hanging corner. Go left across the overhanging face (crux) out to the arete. Continue up the arete (23) for 5 bolts to join Supernaut. Continue up Supernaut for the last 8 bolts.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2011

Up first 4 bolts of Fairies Wear Boots to stance at hanging corner. Up corner to right with a tricky move (23) then straight up the face to join Supernaut. Continue up the last 8 bolts of Supernaut.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2011

Up the overhanging seam for 3 bolts (crux) then a rising traverse L on orange rock out towards the arête. Climb just R of the arête for a sustained section of face climbing for 20m to the top.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 2010

Climb Supernaut for 5 bolts, then head slightly right and more directly upwards on orange rock via sustained, thin, varied, and tricky-to-read sequences to the anchors.

The grade is very much out on this one due to lack of repeats. 24 or 25?

Climb the 1st 4 bolts of Supernaut, and continue rightwards up the vague corner with a cruxy move high in the corner. Ignore the Line of Bolts going straight up the grey face above (Heaven and Hell) and continue further up right on orange rock to belay.

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