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Summary

Multis and routes that start from the base of the crag.

Access issues inherited from Bare Rock

Bare Rock is situated on private land.

Due to increased traffic major repairs to the access road are occuring over the next few weeks. This work started today (16/05/2019).

Part of the process is that the material used needs to get quite wet and then dry for a number of days before it properly 'sets'. To use it before then will result in heaps of damage / erosion and us then needing to redo the whole thing. This will be quite a pricey project, please do not make the kind people undertaking it do it twice!

Please can any parties coming to Bare Rock over the next few weeks park at the very bottom of the driveway (just before the steep 'pinch' bit; about 200m from the white gate) and walk up the remainder of the way. Alternatively, you can drive to the top from Avoca or from West of Fingal at the roadwork site office.

Please also be sure to keep the neighbours road access clear at all times. This is essential.

Routes

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Grade Route

Locate the start on the slab directly below the rightmost end of the Boneyard. To get there, follow orange tags towards Bare Rock in rough alignment as the road to the shipping container.

P1 (18) 30m - Up surprisingly steep box groove and slab finale.

P2 (21) 30m - Steep moves and thin crux to start, then onward to great slabbing and another crux.

P3 (19) 25m - Up face and slab (unpleasant start) with tricky face moves at the top.

P4 (19) 25m - More slab, with a hard first sequence, and a desperate one to gain the belay.

P5 (18) 25m - Up, with a few challenging moves on deteriorating rock. Easy chossy climbing to arrive at the righthand end of The Boneyard.

Rap the route (5 x 30m raps or 2 x 60m raps), or climb at The Boneyard and exit via the fixed lines.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 21 Feb 2016

FA: Gerry Narkowicz & Paul Thomson, 6 Mar 2016

A moderate ground-up way to access the Boneyard all on Trad, mossy; but the abseil traffic has cleaned it up considerably. Starts at the rap line, just left of the nose of the original 'Boneyard Route'.

  1. 30m 18. First pitch climbs the rap line / corner taking the R fork for the last 3m to the rap chain.

  2. 30m 18. Traverse R for 5m (no pro, maybe anchor off the rap line!?), then straight up thin crack just around the nose. Move left to corner, then finish up mossy wall (poor pro).

FA: Goshen Watts & Mark Rewi, 24 Apr 2019

The first route at Bare Rock.

A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch.

P1 40m (21) - Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses.

P2 32m (25) - Follow line of bolts right off belay, up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay.

P3 35m (21) - More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height.

P4 20m 20) - Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to elay on ledge below Orange Crush.

Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Obsidian Obsession.

Alternate second pitch to Black Fire.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground. The line of bolts trending up from this foreshortened belay is Black Fire. Bisso of Orange goes right.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the foreshortened belay as a giant 35m pitch.

P1 - 35m (16)

P2 - 30m (22)

P3 - 30m (22)

P4 - 35m (22)

P5 - 25m (26)

P6 - 30m (21)

Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose.

P1 35m (22) - Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay.

P2 20m (25) - Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping.

P3 25m (24) - Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay.

P4 45m (22) - A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up.

P5 25m (24) - Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb.

3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground.

Starts right of The Sapphire Rose P1. Straight up to join The Sapphire Rose at the P1 anchors.

FA: Andrew Martin

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 30m (25/26) - Crimpy, technical and sustained face climbing up the black rock.

P2 - 15m (21) - Tricky and awkward. Caution getting to the 3rd bolt from the box groove. Tricky traverse right, then thin slabbing to the belay. Can be easily combined with the next pitch.

P3 - 35m (20) - Enjoyable slabbing with the moves getting more interesting in the latter half.

P4 - 20m (25) - The boulder problem pitch. Harder if you're short. Hard boulder between 2nd and 3rd bolt, then entertaining steep blocky climbing (gr22) to belay.

P5 - 30m (27) - Fingery, thin and hard to read. The thin orange streak leading into the black headwall.

P6 - 25m (4) - Junky, loose exit pitch... but only grade 4.

Descend by rapping the route as necessary, or walking down via the approach/descent gully on the righthand side (looking out) of the summit.

FA: Andrew Martin

  1. 25, 30 m, bolted line 3 m right of Ride the Lightening original. Belay as for RTL original at chains.

  2. 22, 15 m, step right and up from belay. Belay at chains on comfortable ledge.

  3. 24, 30 m, thing slab up and right from belay, continuing up past dynamic harder section in the black steepening.

  4. as for RTL.

  5. as for RTL.

Bolted line 2 m right of Ride The Ligthning pitch 1. Somewhat funky slabbing on somewhat delicate rock. Climb directly past the last bolt for maximum crankage.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 7 Jun 2018

Starts at ground level, to the right side of the scree-ramp leading to Sapphire Rose et al. Start just left of a big corner forming a right-leaning arch. Hard and varied.

P1 30m (22) - Climb on the right leaning rib along the lip of the arch with progressively increasing difficulty to a tough awkward finale.

P2 30m (22) - Trend right along the lip of the arch with an easy start leading to much thin face climbing.

P3 35m (25) - Up. Through a vague square cut corner/rooflet, and up a very thin and technical slab on spaced bolts.

P4 30m (25) - Straight up the steep headwall with pumpy, powerful climbing to a final thin headwall on black rock (can be a bit dirty).

Descent via 2 x 60m raps to the ground - top rap is 62m+... you might make it simul-rapping but tie knots!! Alternately 35m/30m/55m rap.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster.

Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around.

Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (its possible to stem off the right-corner in the lower 1/3rd without changing the grade), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face.

Set: Paul Thomson, 2 Feb 2016

FA: Paul Thomson, 4 Feb 2016

The continuation of Godhead's Lament past 8 more bolts through even more ridiculously steep climbing.

Start up Godhead's Lament. At the 2nd last bolt of GL (the fixed hanger before the ringbolt) trend right and up past 8 more bolts.

Set: Paul Thomson, 17 Feb 2016

FA: Paul Thomson, 9 Mar 2016

Start as for Tomorrow's Dream, climbing directly up to the ledge. Then up following technical black slab for 35m, with varied moves of increasing difficulty.

Combine with P3 of Tomorrow's Dream for a brilliant 2-pitch multi following some of the best rock in the area.

FA: Gerry Narkowicz, 30 Apr 2016

A Symphony of Rock!

The line of bolts left of Tomorrow's Dream is part of a multipitch being developed that tackles the entire Bare Rock face, around the roof, and up the headwall to the top.

Bring 2 x 60m ropes (or 1 x 80m rope), 16 quickdraws, and plenty of muscles.

P1 - 30m (16) 12 Bolts - "The Easy Slab Pitch" - As for Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 1.

P2 - 20m (24) 6 Bolts - "The Funky Roof-Turn Pitch" - Straight up the orange face above the belay, to hard (and funky!) moves getting into the roof, turning the lip and getting established on the face. Easier slab climbing above to belay.

MOVE BELAY UP 5M to RINGS JUST BELOW SHORT SLAB (5m left of Tomorrow's Dream Pitch 3).

P3 - 12m (21) 6 bolts - "The Hard Slab Pitch" - Climb the short, technical black slab above. Up past 2 bolts, then traverse right (to avoid very bad rock), and the up via hard moves.

P4 - 45m (23) 14 Bolts - "The Tenuous Traverse Pitch" - Hard moves off the belay around the bulge, then sustained insecure traversing left below the roofs for 4 bolts. Traverse more easily left to below the final roof. Turn the roof, then continue up Black-and-Yellow streaked slab to belay just below The Great Roof. Some strategically placed long runners will be crucial for mitigating rope drag.

P5 - 15m (26) 7 Bolts - "The Outrageous Roof Pitch" - Head directly left from the belay, staying at the same height as the bolts (via desperate sloper-slapping and heel hooking) to a penultimate move to bridge the void between the end of the roof and the Easter-Rising Ledge-system. Stay low (you shouldn't need to touch the Guano) and traverse left along the ledge to belay below the Black Streak. (The next line of Fixed Hangers to the right is Enchanted to a Stone).

P6 - 15m (25) 8 bolts - "The Bouldery Black-Streak Pitch" - Step left off the belay and up past 2 bolts to boudery climbing with a powerful, juggy finale to belay on ledge.

P7 - 15m (24) 7 bolts - "The Technical Stemming Pitch" - Left past a bolt to join Enchanted to a Stone just before the crux of that route. Up through the stepped roofs to belay on top of headwall.

P8 - 25m (12) 6 bolts - "The Junky Exit Pitch" - Just an exit pitch. Head up off the belay, traverse right, up a bit, then more right, and a touch more up to belay at top of cliff. Average rock, but not too terrible.

DESCENT:

Top out, and walk back down the Approach/Descent Gully at the far Right-Hand side (looking out) of the summit of Bare Rock.

Pitches 1 - 4 (up to The Great Roof) can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes down the line of the climb to reach the ground.

For Pitches 5 - 8, you can rap the Easter Rising face to the Belay below Pitch 6 (on the ledge above the Great Roof) being careful not to get stranded in space from the steepness, then rap 30m straight down to a belay on its own in the middle of nowhere. Then rap 35m again diagonally right (looking in) to the anchors at the top of Yesterday's Hero. Be careful not to get the rope stuck in the crack, or to pull any loose rock onto yourself. Then rap 40m to the ground.

Set: Paul Thomson, 16 Apr 2016

FFA: Paul Thomson, 30 Apr 2016

1 16
2 17
3 19

A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches.

  1. P1 is a fully bolted slab (16).

  2. P2 follows loose right trending diagonal line (camming devices) before traversing to bolt on left wall (17). Up to belay.

  3. P3 is brilliant fully bolted grade 19 climbing on great rock.

An alternate 2nd pitch to Tomorrows Dream making the route fully bolted.

Varient last pitch of Tomorrows Dream Cruxy

The line of bolts between Tomorrow's Dream and Rocketman with a very hard start.

The rightward-trending line of bolts right of The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

A nouveau classic featuring funky and unlikely climbing up a corner system to an airy traverse to finish.

A fun, mostly trad multi that extends Underestimated all the way to the Supernaut Ledge. Will make an excellent alternative to Tomorrow's Dream if you have done that a few times.

  1. 25m (22) As for Underestimated to the belay.

  2. 20m (16) Lovely trad pitch up the obvious right leaning crack. Good gear and fun moves the whole way. Belay at double bolts on ledge.

  3. 35m (21) Hard start off ledge past bolt and key 0.4 cam then intriguing face climbing on excellent gear and passing one more bolt to double bolts on ledge.

  4. 20m (18) Funky, fully bolted slab pitch to the Supernaut Ledge.

Set: Ingvar Lidman

FA: Will Vidler & Mitchell Stewart, 27 Apr

Start right of Underestimated. Vicious.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

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