Showing all 5 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
25 | ★★★ Easter Rising
FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 40m | Bare Rock | ||
27 | ★★ Green Spandex
Powerful moves following an incipient diagonal crack on the 20 degree overhanging headwall above The Great Roof. The Belay is a fully-hanging stance on the very lip of the roof. Getting to the climb is a big undertaking. From the top of Bare Rock, locate the rap-access anchors for the Easter Rising Face (about 50m right (looking out) of the Supernaut top anchor, tucked away among some scraggly bushes near the cliff edge (ignore another set of anchors in the open between the Supernaut anchors and the Easter Rising anchors - these are the top-out anchors for Master of Puppets)). Fix a 60m rope, rap down and redirect the rap-rope off a single bolt (on McDonagh face), then rap down and right (looking in) aiming for a double U-bolt belay about 10m right of the direct rap line. Redirect the rap-rope again off these anchors, and rap down the overhanging headwall (clip into bolts on the way down, as the line is very steep, and diagonal) to the belay on the lip of the Great Roof. A 60m rope JUST reaches (tie a knot in the end). Climb the Diagonal crack past 5 bolts to the anchors. Then Jumaar 40m back to the top. FA: Chris Coppard | 18m, 5 | Bare Rock | ||
25 | ★ A Terrible Beauty
Starts a few meters left of Easter Rising, crosses MacDonagh 8m up, then continuing up the steep, roofy face above. FA: Gerry Narkowicz | 45m | Bare Rock | ||
24 | ★★ Enchanted to a Stone
Start as for Easter Rising, then at the first ledge, take the line of bolts to the RIGHT up a steepening face, before tackling the very cruxy series of stepped roofs at the top. | 45m | Bare Rock | ||
2022 | |||||
27 M1 R | ★★ Masked Lapwing
Traverses the lip of The Great Roof for 40m. Why? Why not? Quite the adventure. About as exposed as it gets, and blessed with stunning rock, and gymnastic moves. Hampered by an easy aid move at the start of each pitch, complex amounts of faff, and a somewhat sketchy second pitch. Start at the belay below Pitch 6 of Agony and Ecstasy in 8 Parts (below the black streak). Access via rap-in for Easter Rising face, or climbing the first 5 pitches of Agony and Ecstasy, or via Tomorrow's Dream-Easter Rising linkup (5 pitches to the black streak ledge).
NOTE: With Pitch 2, it's important to have a lot of slack in the system (aiming for 6-8m falls) in order to avoid both the roof below the headwall, and another series of roofs hidden below. Due to the fully hanging belay, its hard to effectively give slack, and throughout the crux the climber is hard to see. On the FA, the climber was fairly seriously injured hitting this low roof despite a seemingly clean fall. To escape, rap using 2 x 60m ropes from the anchors at the end of P2. A pair of 60m dynamic ropes will just make it to the belay below P3 of Tomorrow's Dream with stretch. Be careful with rope length, and dont waste too much rope in the knot. From there, continue to rap down Tomorrow's Dream. FA: Paul Frothy Thomson, Jared Anderson & Stephen Varney, 5 May 2022 | 40m, 2 | Bare Rock |
Showing all 5 routes.