Supercool moves! Rock is fairly suspect, but not too bad. Some heeeeavy crimping on this one after the crux, and a sick double Gaston move at the crux unlike anything I've done before. Good learning! Unfortunately no chance to give it a second shot, though it's good to rest my fingers anyway
Yep. A year later and I still cant even DO the top crux through the rooflet. Still took a bit of effort to figure out the bottom (gr25) crux, but felt easier and very repeatable now. Didnt go to the top this time because ive been there before and cant be bothered. This would be a 2-star route for the first 12m, a 1-star route to the top crux (at 20m) and a 0-star route turning the top on bad rock and continuing up the friable slab above. Cleaning is hard and dangerous because of of the traversing and the huge amounts of loose rock around this line.
Realy supprised myself flashing to one hold before the end of the first crux. Great rock through the lower crux. Excitingtraverse up to the 2nd crux. Unable to work out the crux moves after multiple attempts, pulled past and clean to the top on average rock.
A 3 hour session working this unclimbed project (with permission) to see if I could put it together. Eventually sorted the powerful, compression-orientated sloper middle-crux, but couldn't work out the main crux at the top turning the final rooflet. I might be able to do it with more time, but not today. Great, aesthetically pleasing rock and moves for the first half. Tricky thin traverse and committing moves through the bulge to the rooflet, then nails above on deteriorating rock.
