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Killiecrankie Craglets

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 27

Seasonality

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Summary

Boulders and outcrops mostly scattered along the walking track between The Docks and the Main Face

Routes

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Grade Route

The Largest Boulder at water level approx 250m north of the Docks with a splitter crack on either side

Right trending splitter on the landward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay

FA: Toby Story, Nick Hancock & Doug McConnell, 2002

easier angled crack on the seaward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay. either simil-rap of tie end of the rope to a ground anchor and rap off the other side

FA: Oscar Purtell, Nick Hanson & Clare Munnings, Dec 2020

FA: 12 Dec 2020

Steep cracks and vertical faces on an outcrop high above the Suspension Trauma cave. Danny's Roof and most of the potential routes are in a shady nook on the northern side. Can't Stop the Grovel is higher up the right/western side of the crag in the descent gully.

Daunting steep and wide corner and undercling roof. Wires and Cams with doubles to #3, single #4 and #5, optional #6

FA: Danny Hazell & Gerard Tarr, 12 Dec 2019

A quest for the perfect splitter hand crack on the hill became a grovel fest up a chimney to a thread belay, to discover that the 2nd pitch splitter crack was just a moss-covered root growing on the cliff.

FA: Beth Wadley & Patrick Munnings, Dec 2020

Offwidth splitter to cave, then short man-eating diagonal squeeze left. The offwidth can be protected (and climbed!) reasonably using thin secondary cracks, but the squeeze will be a little spicy for leaders too big to fit inside. Wires and Cams from .2 to #4. Optional 5 and 6

FA: Danny Hazell & Gerard Tarr, 12 Dec 2019

The massive cave visible from the Docks

Mega line through the middle of the cave

P.Munnings offwidth project right of Suspension Trauma cave

FA: Simon Bischoff & Tierney O’sullivan, Dec 2014

Triangular cliff facing seawards just south of the Docks

The massive flake into off width visible from the track. Approx 1km south of The Docks.

Undercling to offwidth. Originally given 27. Second ascent 15 years later downgraded to 25. Use the line of holds just right of bolts and preclip 2nd bolt. Start is now 22.

FA: N Handcock, 2003

on the rocky point near the Docks bay, A granite bridge is visible at Low tide. This has 2 high-quality, boulder problems.

Start in the hole on the landward side of the bridge. Hold the furthest left jug on the face and traverse right via jugs. downclimb and lower under the bridge reaching for jugs on the other side. Traverse under the bridge right along slopper rail. Finish with a hard move into right trending hand crack (crack gloves advised) and top out. a sustained and challenging problem with great moves, requiring good body tension.

on the same feature as Salmon of knowledge. Sit start holding the positive rail on the seaward side of the boulder. Under the roof and directly up jugs on the landward side to top-out

FA: Tommy Krauss

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