Help

Routes in The Candlestick

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:

-

Other filters:

  • Weather
  • Vegetation
  • Condition
  • Descent
  • Rock type
  • Style
  • Steepness
  • Aspect
  • Walk in time
  • Water access
  • Legality
  • Walk in angle
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
16 Normal Route

Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.

  1. 30m Up chimney / crack

  2. 30m More chimney / crack, ending on a good ledge with 2 rings to tyrolean back to the mainland roughly level with the top of the tote.

  3. 30m through chimney past big chockstone (on descent it's easy to get your rope stuck on this), then up through looser rock into the sunshine to a rusty anchor.

  4. 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted)

Trad 110m, 4 Fortescue Bay
20 CNG Direct Candlestick

FA: Craig Adam & Greg Thompson

Trad 110m Fortescue Bay
1975
18 The 'ABC' Route

FA: M Tillema, T Wood & G Kowalik, 1975

Trad 110m, 5 Fortescue Bay
1981
17 The Wick

FA: L Closs, T Williams & S McDowell, 1981

Trad 110m Fortescue Bay
1997
18 West Wall

FA: David Gray & Sebastien Meffre, 1997

Trad 130m, 4 Fortescue Bay
1998
18 Corner Route
1 18 30m
2 17 30m
3 15 25m
4 15 20m

60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim.

Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch.

Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.

  1. (18) 30m Steely up corner crack which thins to fingers. Traverse right under roof and out onto finger flakes on face then up and traverse back left to sloping belay ledge with fixed wire. Good sustained pitch.

  2. (17) 30m Up corner crack with bridging and hand jamming of various widths. Continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. Good pitch with some small rest ledges.

  3. (15) 25m Up wide crack and through awkward chimney sqeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. If climbing in single pair then leader will need to trail tyrolean rope up through chimney and flick around arête with help of second otherwise it will get stuck on arête. Continue up cracks and onto belay ledge being mindful of loose rock when choosing anchor pro.

  4. (15) 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

FA: Drew Fenton & Brad Miller, 1998

Trad 110m, 4 Fortescue Bay
2018
18 The Middle Way

FA: Xinyu Zheng, Subine Pratt Hunziker & Dave James, 2 Jan 2018

Trad 95m, 4 Fortescue Bay
2019
22 Sankara

FA: Danny Wade, 2019

Deep water solo 20m Fortescue Bay
23 Livin in Lutana

FA: Alex Hartshorne & John Fisher, 2019

Trad 50m, 2 Fortescue Bay
2020
20 Cherry Picker

FA: Alex Bog & Chris Wallace, Jan 2020

Trad 70m, 3 Fortescue Bay

Showing all 10 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文