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Canoe Bay Crag

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Description

With the relaxing atmosphere, easy 20 minute walk from Fortescue Bay and abundance of good routes all virtually next door to each other, these cliffs provide great cragging and a low commitment alternative to the more adventurous nature of climbing in the area. The rock quality varies across the cliff-line, but is generally of good quality with established routes accepting gear very well. All routes to date have been cleaned of time-bombs and loose rock, though take-care as the crag is relatively new - helmets are strongly recommended. The crag receives morning sun and goes into shade in the early afternoon, with some seepage occurring after a heavy rain

Access issues inherited from Tasmania

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Approach

The crag is split across two cliffs (North and South) and routes are listed from climbers' left to right. Both cliffs are accessed from the Canoe Bay walking track, which is a nice walk in itself. Head across the beach, then follow the track and directions listed below for each cliff.

Ethic inherited from Tasmania

  • The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted​.

  • Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.

  • For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday

https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux).

FA: Christoph Speer, Rach Chong & Nov 2022

Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack. Lower-off.

FA: Roger Parkyn, Christoph Speer & Oct 2022

Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then bridge airily across the groove (looks unlikely from the ground) to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer, Cameron Semple & Roger Parkyn

The watery grave. If you’re questioning the grade you’re probably climbing it wrong. Lower-off.

FA: Zack Lazatin, Jemma Herbert & Nov 2022

There was considerable debate about the grade on this route. Fantastic climbing on great rock up the LHS of the arete. Start at the middle of the face below the undercut. Move past this to the flake (good wires and finger sized cams), pull past this to a good small wire, then continue up the superb steep arete on its LHS. Finish at the shared Sea Legs anchor around the right of the arete.

FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn

Thoughtful climbing up the open corner to the lower-off. Excellent small / medium wires and cams. Highly repeatable.

FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn

Photogenic & the South Cliff classic. Well-protected climbing up the overhanging finger crack. Sustained moves in the first half, before breaking out right to the good flake. After this, trend left and up to crank through the steep headwall on good holds, finishing up the final corner (save a BD #0.5) at the top. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer

Exciting climbing up the steep shallow corner and arete (peg leg). Up the crack to the first roof, pull left under this and then traverse across the fantastic featured face. Pull around and into the corner to finish as for Rum on the Rocks. Save a BD #1 for the traverse and #0.5 for the top corner.

FA: Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn & Cameron Semple

Sustained climbing up the wall left of The Sirens Call. Start by climbing the LH edge of the flake to a stance, then trend left and up the slab to the horizontal break. Finish up and right into the final few metres of The Sirens Call. Take small to medium wires, plenty of finger-sized cams and a BD #3 and #4 for the top.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

Continually interesting climbing up the eye-catching line to the lower-off. The leaning block is keyed-in but take care. A BD#4 for the top is useful.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

Neat climbing up the face and blunt arete. Climb up and into the alcove, carefully place some gear, then crank straight through the roof and up the pocketed face. Mantle to the ledge, then follow the flake on the blunt arete before a final mantle to finish and lower-off. Take finger sized cams and wires.

FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn

Sustained climbing up the featured face on jugs, pockets and flakes. Finish up left of the arete at the top, then clip the shared lower-off on the right of the arete. Take a cam for the horizontal at the start, and a BD #1 for a pocket before the first bolt.

FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn

Enjoyable and well-protected climbing up the highly featured face and crack. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

Up the blocky crack/face, plug some gear in the horizontal at 2/3rds height, then abandon ship and do a memorable traverse left (crux) to finish up Blistering Barnacles.

FA: Christoph Speer & Zack Lazatin

Tricky start up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top and lower-off. Nice climbing but the rock is a little peppery.

FA: Christoph Speer, Roger Parkyn & Oct 2022

Nice bridging and finger jamming up the wide-angle corner with good protection. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Roger Parkyn

Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and head straight-up through the bulge and the excellent (just right) crack to the top. Lower-off.

FA: Fraser L-R & Christoph Speer

An excellent lead for the grade. Just left of the Arete from Maiden Voyage, start-up the corner / hand-crack on excellent holds, then traverse left into the splitter hand-crack and follow this to the top. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Gina Sorensen

Engaging and thought-provoking climbing up the arete and its face on the RHS. A range of cams and two Us lead to the top. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Liam Mangan-Smith, 2023

A subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top and then abseil off using the Smooth Sailing anchor.

FA: Alex Lawson & Christoph Speer

The wide corner/chimney left of Bridge Over Troubled Water.

FA: Fraser (solo), Jan 2023

Nice jamming and bridging between the wide corner and finger crack. Traverse right across the ledge at top to belay from the anchor. Abseil-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Fraser L-R

Killer climbing. Tricky start through the shallow groove to a rest, then continue above through the crack system to a stance below a rooflet. Climb through the rooflet and up the featured face to a final mantle and lower-off. Good rock, good pro and great climbing. Take wires and plenty of finger sized cams.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

Be careful with your cam placements or you might lose them forever. Crank up the intermittent cracks to a stance, then continue delicately up the narrowing crack line and steepening face to the top, with good wires and small cams. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Alex Lawson

Quality jamming and face climbing up the obvious crack. No hints for the gear required. Step right to lower-off.

FA: henk morgans, Jayd Blunden, Dale Cokley & Thomas Cramer, 2 Jan 2016

Good sustained climbing that will clean-up well with some traffic and/or fairy influence. Layback the flakes to a stance, then follow the intermittent cracks to finish up the steep face to the lower-off. Take wires and a single rack of cams to BD #1.

FA: Hamish Jackson & Christoph Speer

Please don't. Fun bridging and face climbing up the featured open corner and crack-line, stepping left to lower-off at the top. Take care as the rock is a little friable.

FA: Jayd Blunden, Thomas Cramer, Dale Cokley & henk morgans, 2 Jan 2016

Decent climbing up the featured crack / face on interesting water-washed rock. Often wet. Walk-off right.

FA: henk morgans, Dale Cokley, Jayd Blunden & Thomas Cramer, 2 Jan 2016

Feeling lucky? Excellent climbing up the crack-line and layaways on great rock leads to a steep headwall. Finish up this with the bolt protected crux at the very top. Good gear.

FA: Fraser & Chris Speer, Jan 2023

The headwall finger crack was originally climbed by traversing in from Salt Flakes at the first rooflet (titled left exit). Two bolts have been added to accomodate an excellent direct start. Bouldery moves lead to the break, with some technical moves past the first bolt. Continue up past another bolt into the excellent finger crack, finishing right to the anchor. Lower-off.

FA: Chris Speer & Fraser, Jan 2023

Mouth watering climbing up the flakes and cracks, trending left at the first rooflet to finish up the excellent finger crack (crux). Great rock and pro. Lower-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

An easier, but perhaps more exciting finish. Up the flakes and crack line direct to the final roof then finish straight-up the headwall. Lower-off.

FA: Hamish Jackson & Christoph Speer

Good climbing up the corner just right of Salt Flakes. Gear is adequate, but requires thought and is tricky to place at the crux. Step left to lower-off.

FA: Fraser L-R & Christoph Speer

The direct start to Anchovy Arete. The start is a little bold but is OK with a good spot, stay below ramp using holds in the stepped seam.

FA: Fraser L-R & Christoph Speer

A small climb that’s big on flavour. Start up the handcrack, then move up the left trending diagonal crack system until you can climb the superb face and arete above. Good gear. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

FA: Christoph Speer & Fraser L-R

Up the crack and into the compartment, then make your escape by chimneying (crux) and jamming through the roof, finishing up the crack to the top. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

FA: Fraser L-R & Christoph Speer

Up the face and crack trending left into the undercut, then up the thin line past a flake and finger crack crux to the top. Good pro. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

FA: Christoph Speer & Fraser L-R

Classic. The perfect, water-washed hand-crack with a trickier move at the top. Good pro. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

FA: Christoph Speer & Jai Friend

Remember your beta and muscle your way through consistently crimpy climbing up blunt arete with black streak, avoiding the corner of FCCC.

FA: Fraser, Jan 2023

The obvious corner crack to the right of Rinse, Repeat. Pont et blocage du système de coin. Scramble to anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

FA: Christoph Speer & Fraser L-R

Hand jam up the corner crack to the ledge, then finish up the finger crack. Trad belay and walk-off.

FA: Christoph Speer & Lachlan Mckenzie

The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Can be easily protected if you want to rope up.

FA: Fraser (solo), Jan 2023

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9780646841946

Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.

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