Canoe Bay Crag Mostly Trad climbing 42 routes in cliff

Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux).

Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack. Lower-off.

Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then bridge airily across the groove (looks unlikely from the ground) to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Lower-off.

There was considerable debate about the grade on this route. Fantastic climbing on great rock up the LHS of the arete. Start at the middle of the face below the undercut. Move past this to the flake (good wires and finger sized cams), pull past this to a good small wire, then continue up the superb steep arete on its LHS. Finish at the shared Sea Legs anchor around the right of the arete.

Photogenic & the South Cliff classic. Well-protected climbing up the overhanging finger crack. Sustained moves in the first half, before breaking out right to the good flake. After this, trend left and up to crank through the steep headwall on good holds, finishing up the final corner (save a BD #0.5) at the top. Lower-off.

Exciting climbing up the steep shallow corner and arete (peg leg). Up the crack to the first roof, pull left under this and then traverse across the fantastic featured face. Pull around and into the corner to finish as for Rum on the Rocks. Save a BD #1 for the traverse and #0.5 for the top corner.

Sustained climbing up the wall left of The Sirens Call. Start by climbing the LH edge of the flake to a stance, then trend left and up the slab to the horizontal break. Finish up and right into the final few metres of The Sirens Call. Take small to medium wires, plenty of finger-sized cams and a BD #3 and #4 for the top.

Neat climbing up the face and blunt arete. Climb up and into the alcove, carefully place some gear, then crank straight through the roof and up the pocketed face. Mantle to the ledge, then follow the flake on the blunt arete before a final mantle to finish and lower-off. Take finger sized cams and wires.

Sustained climbing up the featured face on jugs, pockets and flakes. Finish up left of the arete at the top, then clip the shared lower-off on the right of the arete. Take a cam for the horizontal at the start, and a BD #1 for a pocket before the first bolt.

Up the blocky crack/face, plug some gear in the horizontal at 2/3rds height, then abandon ship and do a memorable traverse left (crux) to finish up Blistering Barnacles.

Tricky start up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top and lower-off. Nice climbing but the rock is a little peppery.

Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and head straight-up through the bulge and the excellent (just right) crack to the top. Lower-off.

An excellent lead for the grade. Just left of the Arete from Maiden Voyage, start-up the corner / hand-crack on excellent holds, then traverse left into the splitter hand-crack and follow this to the top. Lower-off.

A subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top and then abseil off using the Smooth Sailing anchor.

Killer climbing. Tricky start through the shallow groove to a rest, then continue above through the crack system to a stance below a rooflet. Climb through the rooflet and up the featured face to a final mantle and lower-off. Good rock, good pro and great climbing. Take wires and plenty of finger sized cams.

Be careful with your cam placements or you might lose them forever. Crank up the intermittent cracks to a stance, then continue delicately up the narrowing crack line and steepening face to the top, with good wires and small cams. Lower-off.

Good sustained climbing that will clean-up well with some traffic and/or fairy influence. Layback the flakes to a stance, then follow the intermittent cracks to finish up the steep face to the lower-off. Take wires and a single rack of cams to BD #1.

Please don't. Fun bridging and face climbing up the featured open corner and crack-line, stepping left to lower-off at the top. Take care as the rock is a little friable.

Feeling lucky? Excellent climbing up the crack-line and layaways on great rock leads to a steep headwall. Finish up this with the bolt protected crux at the very top. Good gear.

The headwall finger crack was originally climbed by traversing in from Salt Flakes at the first rooflet (titled left exit). Two bolts have been added to accomodate an excellent direct start. Bouldery moves lead to the break, with some technical moves past the first bolt. Continue up past another bolt into the excellent finger crack, finishing right to the anchor. Lower-off.

Mouth watering climbing up the flakes and cracks, trending left at the first rooflet to finish up the excellent finger crack (crux). Great rock and pro. Lower-off.

Good climbing up the corner just right of Salt Flakes. Gear is adequate, but requires thought and is tricky to place at the crux. Step left to lower-off.

A small climb that’s big on flavour. Start up the handcrack, then move up the left trending diagonal crack system until you can climb the superb face and arete above. Good gear. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

Up the crack and into the compartment, then make your escape by chimneying (crux) and jamming through the roof, finishing up the crack to the top. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

Up the face and crack trending left into the undercut, then up the thin line past a flake and finger crack crux to the top. Good pro. Anchor set-back from ledge to belay / abseil.

The deep and dark chimney on your right just before the rock-hop to the main crag. Climb the chimney and exit via the hole in the top between the huge boulder. Can be easily protected if you want to rope up.