The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.
Dec 1968 | First ascent: Rick White & Chris Meadows. |
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
16 | Assigned grade |
★★private | |
16 | OZ Rock |
18 [18 - 19] ++ | grAId |
Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.
Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.
Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.
Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!
Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin
Overall quality 79 from 273 ratings.
Based on 9 ratings.
Based on 9 ratings.
Author(s): Matt Hutton
Date: 2015
ISBN: 9780994278418
Australia has a premier splitter crack destination and it's called Frog. Perfect as a winter get-a-way, Frogs Buttress has some of Australia's best trad lines at all grades and will have you taping and racking up so you can put those cracks down!
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
Stuart McElroy on ★★★ Satan's Smokestack 16 - Resized_20180719_155137(0).jpeg
★★★ Satan's Smokestack 16 - IMG_2972.JPG
Daniel Razzino on ★★★ Satan's Smokestack 16 - IMG_2967.JPG
Stuart McElroy on ★★★ Satan's Smokestack 16 - R0111388.JPG
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