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Access: Intention to burn

https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/park-alerts/22242

A heads up to the Frog community that QPWS are not finished with Mt. French just yet, and will target a small parcel when & if the opportunity arises in the time frame given in the Park Alerts notice.

See warning details and discuss

Created 4 weeks ago

description

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to finish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

Route history

Mar 1975First ascent: Henry Barber.

Warnings

29 Aug 2022 Warning Access: Intention to burn

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.98472, 152.61893

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress
23 [22 - 23] + grAId

ethic

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

inherited from Frog Buttress

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81 from 86 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 42
Flash 5
Red point 25
Tick 17
Top rope 10
Attempt 50
Target 1

Comment keywords

hands fist arete steep jamming feet interesting awkward dry crack short crap fingers chimney rest smooth technical bad layback jugs crazy tricky fall tired crux struggle hard pumped tough sustained solid beautiful fantastic fun wicked stoked cool nice great super superb exciting lovely brilliant good amazing awesome perfect

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