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description

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's most welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

© (gremlin)

Route history

Mar 1975First ascent: Henry Barber

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.98472, 152.61893

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

21 Assigned grade
22 [21 - 22] + grAId

ethic

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

inherited from Frog Buttress

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 95 from 174 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 83
Flash 8
Red point 42
Tick 38
Pink point 4
Top rope 2
Attempt 75
Target 2

Comment keywords

scary intimidating tricky exposed fall committing steep crack bad feet dynamic short layback face jugs jamming hands dihedral interesting smooth slopey rest fist epic fingers awkward reachy slippery magic good beautiful great enjoyable brilliant fun classic incredible stoked superb fantastic awesome nice classy super cool exciting amazing perfect sustained overhung hard struggle tough difficult crux pumped dyno solid tired

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Matt Hutton

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278418

Australia has a premier splitter crack destination and it's called Frog. Perfect as a winter get-a-way, Frogs Buttress has some of Australia's best trad lines at all grades and will have you taping and racking up so you can put those cracks down!

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

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