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Rock: Loose slab

It's located right the start of the climb. Basically the first bit everyone is pulling from to make the first bouldery move is loose already. Some epoxy glue should be applied in order to stop the slab from coming off completely.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 years ago

description

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to a #4 C4 are essential if you don't like run outs!

Route history

Feb 1972First ascent: Rick White

Warnings

22 Nov 2020 Warning Rock: Loose slab

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.98472, 152.61893

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
private
20 [19 - 20] ++ grAId

ethic

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Use the toilets at the car park and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

inherited from Frog Buttress

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78 from 286 ratings.

Difficulty - 18

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 6 ratings.

Suggested Grade

18

Based on 6 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 136
Flash 30
Red point 106
Top rope 6
Tick 109
Pink point 6
Attempt 99
Target 2

Comment keywords

fist epic easy jamming pinch bad feet balancy reachy thrutchy hands sharp crazy crack crimpy technical offwidth jugs interesting face rest fiddly awkward slippery tough strenuous sweat struggle sustained desperate difficult powerful pumped crux crank solid tired challenging hard wicked perfect amazing incredible awesome beautiful nice sweet exciting fun super fantastic good lovely stoked enjoyable classic great superb cool ground fall runout fall committing tricky scary intimidating unprotected

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Matt Hutton

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9780994278418

Australia has a premier splitter crack destination and it's called Frog. Perfect as a winter get-a-way, Frogs Buttress has some of Australia's best trad lines at all grades and will have you taping and racking up so you can put those cracks down!

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Wed 19 Apr
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