The Glen

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6
  • Content Quality: Low




Steep fractured rock. New route opportunities.


Two major buttresses with quite different characteristics. Feels remote but only 2k's from where you leave the car.

Access issues

Through private land at Silverton. Property owners must be contacted for access permission (Richard Waters - 02 6775 3755). Contact local climbers for information via the Facebook page - 'UNE Outdoor Adventure Club UNEOAC'. Continued access depends on cordial relations with the owners who have been very generous with access permission since the early seventies. Respect fences and leave gates as you find them!


See local climbers for approach info.

Where to stay





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Discovered accidentally in early June 2014 by Ben Vincent and Richard Curtis while looking for Cooney Creek Crags which Curtis had spotted via Google Earth. First climbed 27th June on the second visit.



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Grade Route

The first route climbed at The Glen. Starts on the left hand side of the main wall. Belay from under arete overhang - out and left from base of climb. The first pitch takes the obvious crackline on the left wall with a large flat chockstone protruding from it near its top.

  1. 20m (17). Up slabby start to obvious vertical weakness starting in the corner. Up through blocks with great pro. A bit of loose rock here will clean up nicely. Trad belay on spacious ledge.

  2. 30m (20, crux). Up onto block above and right of belay ledge. Traverse right to a stance beneath blank corner (small pro). Up blank-looking right face, trending left on diagonal lines to an obvious vertical crack line in corner. Once at the pyramid top of the off-width crack, traverse out right (5m) until you are beneath the small but obvious line with the shrubby top-out. Tree belay 10m back.

FA: Ben Vincent & Richard Curtis, 27 Jun 2014

The central route on the main wall at The Glen.

  1. 20m (22). A relatively slabby run-out start (small wires low down). Obvious L trending crack provides first decent pro. Follow obvious line diagonally R through layback crack & on to belay ledge (small & extra large cams).

  2. 30m (22). Up & L behind large flake to good pro at top of ramp. A committing blank traverse out right with good feet to base of diagonal L layback with pro (small & med cams). Up through L diagonal to rest before tackling the obvious blocky vertical lines in corner. Same exit as Brawn & Bovril

FA: Ben Vincent & Richard Curtis, 12 Jul 2014

The obvious right trending diagonal crack line on the right hand side of the main wall. Scramble up large rock fall to start.

  1. 20m (22, crux). Up obvious finger crack which starts vertical and then trends diagonally R. Follow line (selection of wires and small cams) to large prominent overhanging block. Chimney up behind block to trad belay on top - obvious horizontal seam at back.

  2. 15m (18). Traverse down and R through large juggy window feature (large cam/s) before continuing up and R and around arete through undercling. From here, take your pick of the three vertical exit lines - original ascent used the third line on the R. Tree belay 15m back.

FA: Ben Vincent & Richard Curtis, 4 Jul 2014


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