Hope Buttress




Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:


This is the first cliff you see as you approach the gorge (north from the car-park). The buttress is split by two sharp, clean cracks. The climbs are described from left to right as you face the cliff.

You can access from the south via either of two gullies, the first upstream gully is easier.

Descent notes

Walk off to the left (facing the cliff) and down some big steps, right next to where "Fury" starts.


Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Grade Route

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

FA: T. (Tadpole) Ball, 1986

FA: T. Gynther & Al Stephens, 1988

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1980

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1976

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

FA: Paul Bayne & John Lattanzio, 1982

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & A. Legler, 1980

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

FA: G. Pritchard, John Lattanzio & P. Butler, 1982

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

This short wall is behind you when facing hope.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Opposite Hope Buttress is a north facing buttress on the higher tier above 'Hubris'.

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the FH, then move up (crux) to the next FH. Mantle over the bulge to lower offs, optional grassy top out.

FA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1988

Maint: 17 Feb 2023

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Delicate slab climbing linking into the 3rd bolt of 'Cross wired'

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

FA: Brendan Heywood, 1 Sep 2022

Between Y's move and hope is a small boulder under a very overhung steep face.

Up arete

SDS up leaning rail.

In the gully behind Hope Buttress is a large boulder split by an obvious crack. This is Y’s Move.

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & G. Pritchard, 1980

A short easy top rope slab.

Around 10m upstream from 'Hopeless', is a promising pit

If this goes it would be cool. Start 2m underground and climb left and up out of the pit


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Sat 20 May
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