Thick as Thieves Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6




From Illusion Buttress walk upstream in the main Gara River gully, possible when the river is low. Otherwise from the upstream end of Hope Buttress, walk/scramble straight across, past a small gully, then on the the main water course. The most obvious features are the Private Sector Wall, and the overhanging black corner, “Thick as Thieves”. As you approach from Illusion Buttress the first route you come across is Tipitina on the opposite side of the river to T.A.T

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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An overhanging black corner crack. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

4m downstream from Thick As Thieves, the thin crack near the end of the buttress. Up over bulge to the crack/corner. Up this and step right onto ledge.

FA: Paul Bayne & SUTF, 1982

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

FA: Al Stephens & M. Peck, 1982

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

FA: Ben Christian, 1995

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

FA: M. Peck & Al Stephens, 1982


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