Motorhead Buttress

  • Grade context: AU


This is a small buttress across from and slightly downstream of Mad Woman’s Breakfast. It is across the water course. The buttress is split by a thin crack with a roof at half height. This crack, due to its obscurity and it’s ability to spit off all comers, had gained quite a reputation until finally dispatched by Matt Rizzuto.


Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Start: The corner to the left of the thin roof crack.

Up corner crack to top.

FA: B. Haliburton & N. Crabb, 1988

Start: As for Motorhead Madness.

Up corner as for Motorhead Madness, then onto ledge. Up flake, then arête to top.

FA: B. Haliburton & N. Crabb, 1988

It’s all over if you can hang in there for the first 7m.

Start: The thin crack.

Through the roof and up the crack on tenuous locks until a tricky move puts you on the ledge. Left, then up the short crack.

FA: Matt Rizzuto & Gordon Low

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