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Private sector

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 45

Seasonality

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Description

The private sector is an east facing wall with a small waterfall at the northern most end. Routes are from left to right.

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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Approach

If approaching via the track walk for about 500m from the bridge, the private sector is the largest drop in the upper gorge and the waterfall is a clear landmark. Walk straight down the gully. To access most of the climbs on the left side, cross above the waterfall and walk all the way over the hump and drop down a saddle on the far side and then come back.

If approaching from the cascades keep to the far right side of the gorge when the river kinks left to the waterfall, over 'Yoda's cave' to the saddle and down.

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Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

This quality bouldering wall faces onto the main private sector wall opposite 'Yoda'

Sit start and climb up and right as the ground rises, finishing on the far right on the large rail

FA: Thor Burey, 29 Nov 2018

Sit start on the good jug in the middle of the wall and then directly up

Shared start with Neomorph then head up almost 1m to the right

The spicy extension finish to 'Facehugger'. Start as for Facehugger and continue on from the obvious layback rail up & R into seam and top out. Chockstone footer block is out.

FA: Ben Vincent, 2 Jul

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

FA: Al Stephens & Ben Christian, 1994

Directly up through bulge left of bush.

FA: G. Low, 1995

Route no longer exists. See Trajectory direct.

FA: John Lattanzio, 1982

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

FA: Gordon Low, 1997

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

FA: Al Stephens, 1994

Start 5m right of Trajectory.

Up staircase blocks to top.

FA: M. Peck (solo), 1982

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

FA: Al Stephens & M. Peck, 1982

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past break (wires) past one BR to top.

FA: Ben Christian, 1994

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two BR’s plus wires.

Straight up thin crack, then past two BR’s and up to belay block. Belay #2 and #3 Friends.

FA: Paul Bayne (self belay), 1982

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers. One BR is the only protection. The hardest climb at Gara Boulders to date.

Clip the bolt, then up to the easier corner above, then easier to top.

FA: G. Robertson & SUTF, 1986

Start: As for Private Sector (slightly left).

Up past 3 BR’s to top.

FA: Ben Christian, 1994

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One BR is the only protection. #2 and #3 Friend belay.

Up wall to BR, then right and up to top.

Start: Block wedged down right from Private Sector.

Up wall above water into thin seam to top. Small TCVs and RPs for PR9. Friend belay.

FA: Gordon Low, P.Hill & T.Hill, 1994

Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can only be done when river is down - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood.

Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay.

FA: Brian Cork, 1996

On the north end on the other side, and almost under, the waterfall is a great little bouldering area only accessible during extended drought.

At normal level this is completely soaked, it needs to be quite dry and will probably need a good clean.

Start low down on the left and zig zag up

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