Mad World Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6




A neat little sunny and protected section of rock. Please be mindful of the many unique and very fragile hollow and pocketed features on this rock. The problems on this boulder are located to the R of these features.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:


Located halfway between Quickdraw Boulders and Three Star Boulder. 50m south of Bonsai Boulder.

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.



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Grade Route

Sit start 1m left of OLS. L-hand side pull feature & small R-hand crimp. Bomber rail for feet. Up to tiny R-hand sidepull & big L-hand move up to slopey/crimpy mantle features.

FA: Ben Vincent, 25 Jun

Start as for OLS. Up crack until it gets awkward & then exit L & top-out on good crimpers.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Jun

Sit start at base of crack. Up through solid hand jammies until they become loose fists beyond the buldge. 100% crack baby.

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Jun

Start as for OLS. Up crack & exit R on gritty coarse features. Warning: a fair bit of rotten, flexy rock surounds the top-out jugs (avoid the obvious juicy looking low R-hand jug).

FA: Ben Vincent, 11 Jun


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