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Humpty Dumpty area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
  • Content Quality: Medium

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Description

A large prominent precariously placed boulder in the middle of Powers Creek. The goat track which drops down the ridge from the north will take you directly around the boulder.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Approach

Located down in the middle of Powers creek, 100m up stream from the Gara R/Powers Ck confluence.

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

History

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Alan Ezzy stared long enough at this boulder until holds materialized up the overhung section on the boulder's southern corner. The following weekend (26/7/2014) Alan and Ben put up the first problem - Rocky Balboa

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route

An overhung punchy little number on the R arete looking down river. To start, pull on using chip for L hand and an open hand crimp on arete for R hand. Heel hook right foot below R hand on arete. Move up through obvious crimps on the underside of the overhanging face and arete. Move up and R to top out. Due to mossy highball nature of this climb, top out is considered as establishing yourself on high mossy crimps with feet set above arete.

FA: Alan Ezzy & Ben Vincent, 26 Jul 2014

A superbly featured highball wall with a small selection of instant classics

Up the jugtastic features, the crux is the sit start

Up the great layback features then slightly left with a delicate spicy highball finish

Up layback feature then onto huge rail

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Activity

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