Moonscape area




This area of heavily sculpted boulders is yielding a lot of great little gems.

Blocs are listed from downstream to upstream.


Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.


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Grade Route

This almost subterranean area had been long overlooked or dismissed but yields a number of quality contorted unique problems. It is immediately in front about 20m as the track turns to slab, under and around the tallest boulder in the area.

A cruisy little layback problem

Sit start and slap up the right leaning short spire

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 May 2020

The left deep pit. Layback / offwidth / chimney out of the pothole.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020

In the right side of the pit facing north, sit start and up the arete, duck under the chockstone without touching it or the back wall and up to freedom.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mar 2020

Start jammed in the chockstone and up the back wall without touching the front wall.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020

Short crimpy problem that feels more exposed than it is over the void above 'Octopus asylum'

FA: Brendan Heywood, 16 Dec

This start further back / down / under the first 2 pits. Up jam crack and then grovel through the triangular exit.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mar 2020

Starts 1-2m of Evacuation station on the great flake. Up flake, into horizontal roof crack and then grunt around the rooflet into the open. A stellar jamming test piece.

FA: Ben Vincent, 3 May 2020

Just right of space jam?

In a pit with a wedged tractor tire. Poor feet, good crimpers, line up the top out.

Start on and mantle through the chunky knob. Beware of the slippery casuarina needles.

Directly in front of where the track comes to

Sit start and easy traverse left

Harder than it should be

Thin crimps

Sit start left hand on the sidepull, traverse onto rail and up

Start on the obvious head height jug. Slap up left on bad feet to the top corner, then a weird tricky mantle out.

Sit start with left hand on good arete and right spanning to poor sidepull sloper (the lowest 'hold' on the right side), slap up for jug off some pretty bad feet. Stack pads at your discretion, obviously gets easier with more pads.

Start on the sculpted under slaps, up through weird big features and high step

FA: Brendan Heywood, 20 Sep 2015

Super delicate slab moves

A sketchy landing over water which we built up using logs. Up the arete onto the right side.

FA: Benji Dutaillis, 3 May 2020

3 stars of fun absurdity. This needs logs to build up a pad platform. Up the same arete as Gravity Well but head left through the blunt saddle with a finish you will gush over.

FA: Benji Dutaillis, 3 May 2020

Just 5m upstream of where the track pops out

Just off to the right as the decent track drops of the dirt into the cascades is a stacked boulder forming a roof with some unlikely jugs.

About 20m upstream is a nice flat spot to have a picnic surrounded by problems with a good mix of grades.

Easy warmup, up rail and rock over

Sit start in the mud or squat if you prefer. Up corner crack various features along the way.

Sit start in the corner and body jam up bewteen the two boulders.

Stand start. Up arete finishing on little jugs at top.

Left on the arete, right opposed on the sloper, up the face avoiding the jug to the right.

Start on the jug, into crack. Warm up and also a descent

Step up on obvious block and trend up and L then to top.

Up the crack then delicately step past the slab to the right high side pull. Easier with long span.

Stand start on some marginal crimpers, set feet and punch to top.

Up obvious features trending R and L to finish. Don't have a RUD into the water

Sit start under large rail above entrance. Use small feet on opposite boulder. Up layback until boulders meet & into crack/mantle/jugs etc.

Sit start and avoid the crimpers on the face to the left & jam your way up the hand/fist crack like Gollum would want you to.

Sit start the hand crack on the opposite side.

Stand start on one of Gollum’s many faces & chimney & bridge your way to freedom while doing your best Gollum impersonation.

Only use the face jug to mantle (A tall persons problem).

Use smears on all sides to get to jug before mantling.

10m upstream of the Landing Zone

The obvious finger crack line L of Xray. SDS and up the crack.

Up the left ray crack

SDS and up the right leaning crack, sketchy landing

Sit start and climb the left side of the scalloped arête.

Behind 'Gamma ray', up the right side of the scallop thingo

Starts on a crimper. One hard pull & it's all over.

Sit start at base of flake. Up, around & mantle before you reach the next boulder.

Sit Start in corner L of MB. Up crack & through wedge.

Using the woody debris footer press up & lodge your torso in the offwidth. Wriggle, crimp, jam & squirm your way to victory.

A large feature that looks like a wineglass shape was removed from the rock.

From start block chest jam up, transfer L & ride the L pony (lobe). Follow arête up & out

From start block chest jam the void mantle & ride the R pony (or simply mantle the R lobe direct). Step up & bridge across the void out L to small chip. Reach out high & R to seam & work up to assist with the final mantle

A sweet, mossy & soft little finger crack line complete with chocks.

Start on The L side of the mantle piece, campus around & move under L lobe to L side of Washbasin. Ride the Shetland pony (small hidden lobe) then follow obvious seam around to the beginning of the mossy crack & then up as for ACITWB/SP.

Same as for Seahorse but once you arrive at ACITWB/SP span across the void & out to the lobes. Once successfully across and established complete the circuit by topping out LD or BB.

Start on the mantel piece and make your way to the Shetland pony under the L lobe (as for Seahorse). Mantle L lobe and finish up arête as for PR.

Start as for LD. Up arête using R seam, L high crimp & not much else. Dangerous landing.

Stand start. Trend R, delicate mantle to finish.

Start with hands on the mantle piece and use the L lobe to help mantle the mantle piece.

Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a left leg over.

Start with hands on the mantle piece, throw a right leg over.

Pick a side & press yourself up and out.

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