How did such quality problems get ignored for so long? Great quality rock in a shade area with the shortest walk in you could ask for.

Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:


After crossing the bridge walk down stream for 10-20m

Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.


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The first boulder after the gravel beach on the left, climbs are on the downstream side.

This silly one

The one with the big eye

The serious one. Project

Stand start with jam then wrestle up. An alternate start further back might be possible

FA: Benji Dutaillis, 28 Jun 2020

5m downstream from the Minions, facing upstream

Instant classic, not exactly Sharma but still very tasty. Sit start in the corner, up through crimpy side pulls then reach to right gaston and mantle.

Up horizontal rails and mantle.

Long, fun, just the right amount of spice to keep you on your toes. Sit start on the side pull, non trivial traverse over the water without a mat, then link through more rails into 'Turbot St Exit'

On the ... southern bank?

Directly across the river, an easy arete, taller than it appears as the start is hidden.

SDS under massive jug and up. It sets you up for a weird crossed arms move.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 2 Feb 2018

Traverse over to the crack

FA: Alan Ezzy

Old fashioned thrutching, or a fun layback with jugs. Choose wisely.


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