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The big boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 21

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Approach

As you walk south skirting the big water hole on it's left side there is a large clump of big boulders at the bend. They are described from upstream to downstream.

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Ethic inherited from Upper Gara Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Layback through roof, cruxy bulge then super high ball finish

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

A couple layback moves, then reachy left span move and link into the left crack

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

Razor edges

Start on rail, delicately step on and hock up and mantle. A sit start from the lower left rail seems possible

FA: Brendan Heywood, 17 Apr 2016

Start right hand on rail, left pinched arete

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

Jug to mantle

FA: Brendan Heywood, 21 May 2016

As you approach this is often the first thing you see. An obvious large rail. As you get closer you see the potential!

Start in the chip and then traverse around the nose finishing on the slopey crimps. A worthy and fun problem in its own right without the hard finish.

Jug traverse culminating in biiig dyno with imaginary feet

Campus fun

FA: Alan Ezzy, 21 May 2016

Thin high step start into dihedral

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

Easy jugs which get slopyer at the top

FA: carol lee, 21 May 2016

FA: Alan Ezzy, 21 May 2016

A fantastic steep cave, but can quite often be full of water. Possibly a drought only boulder.

Start on the left jugs and traverse all the way to the right and then up the dihedral.

FA: Brendan Heywood, 21 May 2016

Awesome fun start then blanks out at the top over a very bad fall

Great sequence from jugs diagonally up left

FA: Alan Ezzy, 21 May 2016

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