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Disbelief Cave

7

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Description

The two gob-smacking crack lines in the cave proper leave you in a state of disbelief. There are other old school looking cracks in the direct vicinity of the cave.

Access issues

Trad area

Approach

As per Rain Cave access track. Instead of turning left at the 500m cairn, continue straight and downhill for roughly another 500m (no track). Veer left at the top of the cave or slightly before towards a natural clearing. You will find an access ridge just before beautiful orange little caves.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Routes

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Grade Route

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on rattly fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" if you past this point.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 25 Jul 2018

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

FFA: Jacques Beaudoin, 26 Feb 2019

Project for anyone willing to lose some skin. Amazing looking 20m ceiling finger crack.

The obvious hand crack to the right of the amazing beyond belief cave.Up flared hands much harder then it looks into corner system and right under roof finishing up A Right chimney.

FA: zach vertrees & jamie corkins, 7 Mar 2019

The central crack line up to flake joining A left crack, to finish up A right chimney..Extremely good.

FFA: zach vertrees & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 24 Mar 2019

About 10m right of cave in shallow alcove. Nice hands and fists corner crack leads to slightly thrutchy offwidth section and into small cave and rest. Back out of cave and up into chimney to top.

A bunch of large cams as needed, plus some medium stuff for in or above Chimney section. Best to belay from very base of route. Grades from 18 to 20 were suggested so we averaged it out to 19... enjoyable old school climbing ...

FFA: zach vertrees, Macciza a.k.a. Macca & J Corkins, 2 Mar 2019

The gob-smacking brutish looking line opposite the main cave. The type of line that looms over you daring you to step up and give it a try... Does it even go?, how hard?, how wide?, how wild? and that roof... wow ...

A steepish offwidth start (after bouldering up initial section to reach the first gear) arcs up, narrowing into merely a wide crack then a brief loose section before reaching the belay in alcove at roof. Some loose stuff about here so be careful. Gr 20? ~35m?

Novel moves horizontally out a wide bell/bombay slot then drop down weirdly into good fist crack to turn lip and easily to top. Belay off large chockstone or bollards. Rap-off bollard on double ropes. Gr 21? ~20m?

Gear: 1 or 2 BigBro #4's, a few #6 Cams, a couple of 5's, a few 4's, and singles down to Purple, vary number of large gear depending on how solid you feel... Belay takes good #2-4 cams, best to hang out near edge.

FFA: zach vertrees & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 31 Mar 2019

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