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Summary

Coarse granite slab and face climbing.

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt hangers.

Description

Girraween National Park is a large area containing many fine examples of granite slab and face climbing. Most would agree that this is the finest granite climbing S.E. Qld has to offer. With little natural protection and some big run-outs, many of it's routes require an almost free solo approach. Don't be discouraged though, there are plenty of good routes with ample protection squeezed in between the blank walls.

A basic rack and a handful of hangers will suffice on most routes (and maybe some Dettol to clean that nasty granite gravel rash!). Remember - being allowed to climb at Girraween is a privilege. QPWS are aware of climbers and climbing activity in the park over the last 40 years, but be mindful & respectful of other Park users & the Park itself. Do not climb above tourist or hiker tracks, do not establish routes above same. The routes established on The First Pyramid have been taken down for this reason.

The abundance of granite bouldering potential in this region is unparalleled almost anywhere in the world and is screaming for more development - Just be sure to bear in mind you are in a QPWS park and to be ethical with your cleaning of any rock, as well as your use of chalk (the rock is pretty grippy already!).

The best months for climbing are between the months of March to May and September to November as the other months are either extremely hot or can be very cold and windy. Winter is however a good time to climb with fantastic friction on the rock and the wind, if manageable, adds an excellent element of boldness to the routes. Be warned - it has snowed in the past, be ready for very cold weather if visiting mid-Winter.

Access issues

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Approach

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters. There are over ten separate areas within the park where climbing is possible and well established. To find the easiest ways to these areas get a map from the Rangers office. All these areas have well maintained walking tracks to them.

Where to stay

Two campsites exist each with amenities; toilets, hot showers, laundry tub and running water. The Park Service suggests that campers book in beforehand especially if it is a long weekend or school holidays. The information centre is open 2-4pm week days and earlier on weekends. http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/girraween/camping.html

Ethic

Note almost all the sport climbing is on Carrot Bolts. Bring bolt hangers.

Do not place new bolts on the Pyramids, Castle Rock, Sphinx Rock, Turtle Rock and Mt Norman. All these areas are viewed by the general public many times a day. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

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