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Summary

Great cracks in between grippy slabs

Description

This is a serious area and is not recommended for Girra first-timer's! Most routes are long, single pitch slab routes which are mostly located on the western and southern walls.

There are multiple descent options from the summit - all involve a down solo. See Second Pyramid Descent 1 for a convenient one. Alternatively, you can walk accross the top away from the first pyramid, there is an obvious crack/fissure system somewhat to the left. You can drop several metres down a squeeze and pop out above an easy chimney - but remember you will have to hike back around.

Access issues

Girraween National Park is located 260km (~3 hours) SW of Brisbane driving via Stanthorpe. From Brisbane, turn left off the New England Highway 26km S of Stanthorpe (signposted) and follow the road for a further 9km until reaching the park headquarters.

Approach

Access as per the first pyramid, but break off before ascending the first pyramid's summit to the left side until the second pyramid is in sight. Aim for 50 meters below scimitar through scrub.

A more direct approach is possible. Park where Pyramid Rd bends with a view of both pyramids (-28.826252, 151.950668). Walk through grassy field and then straight up through the scrub towards left side of the second pyramid.

Where to stay

Two campsites exist each with amenities; toilets, hot showers, laundry tub and running water. The Park Service suggests that campers book in beforehand especially if it is a long weekend or school holidays. The information centre is open 2-4pm week days and earlier on weekends.

Ethic

Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Do not place new bolts on the Pyramids, Castle Rock, Sphinx Rock, Turtle Rock and Mt Norman. All these areas are viewed by the general public many times a day. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb to high BR then straight up with increasing difficulty past another 2 BRs to a bolted belay. Tricky slab climbing separated by rests in the scoops.

Take big gear for the top. Longer than it looks from the ground. The corner crack starting behind the large boulder, up the left side of the giant flake facing the First Pyramid.

From the second pyramid it is possible to down solo back into the gully. This is considered the 'normal' descent by locals.

Up the rounded arete about 15m L of Scimitar. 3 Carrots to trad belay

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

  1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

  2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

FA: Ian Thomas & Trevor Gynther, 1974

FFA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

10m right of Scimitar.

  1. Step off block to high FH, up water runnel/shallow pockets to second and third FH. Trad belay.

  2. Continue up crack and flakes. Walk off.

A great classic! The definite shallow corner/flake system around right from Scimitar. I would say it's closer to 75m if starting from ground level.

  1. (crux) Up slab, into corner, which is followed to a small ledge.

  2. Up, then left a few metres into grass, up flakes to finish. [Note: a better way to do the second pitch is to follow the corner system all the way to the top]

FFA: Richard Sullivan & Rob Staszewski, 1973

FA: Nic Taylor

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan

FA: Scott Camps & Richard Henderson, 1986

FA: Scott Camps & Richard Henderson, 1986

Don't let the crack suck you in except for placing good protection because there are plenty of good holds either side. Continue past ledge and straight up and over. Scramble down from the back or down climb to to first ledge and rap off obvious horn.

This route is the first obvious arching overhang route. To access you need to squeeze under a boulder and are met with a wide crack that turns into a traverse. Belay from the end of the traverse and an easy walk down.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Richard Sullivan, 1972

This is the second obvious arching crack that encases Charlott's web. The start can be identified by a large offwidth with an eagle skeleton stuck about 10m high in the crack. Follow up the offwidth section before traversing your way to freedom. Descend left from the belay on easy terrain to meet the same decent as Charlott's web.

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