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Shark's Fin

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Summary

Superb granite climbing in a scenic location. A scattered collection of huge to small granite boulders, all single pitch.

Description

Routes are organised clockwise, starting at the route just Right of The Shark's Fin (Block 1). Blocks are numbered to make location of individual routes easier:

Access issues inherited from Girraween

The climbing is on a coarse granite (Stanthorpe Adamalite). Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around. Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

Approach

GPS: -28.857475727575164, 151.9520111991227

Parking in the Castle Rock Camp Ground (far Southern end where the track exits/enters the campground) would save you some walking from the main carpark area. Walk to Castle Rock and turn-off left here. Follow the track to Mt. Norman up over the hill and down about 500m to the creek, cross this and up to the first slab:

Follow the painted stripes across this to the bush uphill, through this to the second slab:

Cross this, following the painted stripes to the bush on the other side. Walk into the bush here about 50m till you see this fallen dead tree on your right:

Turn right here and bush-bash for about 50m till you arrive at the first of several big slabs. Follow these towards a large rocky outcrop in the distance:

Circle right below this, then make your way up through the boulders and scrub till you arrive on the gigantic open slab and head up this to the top, keep going across 2 smaller slabs till you arrive at bushland of small sapings. You are now about 100m from the Shark's Fin - hidden by 2 house sized boulders and scrub:

Where to stay

Castle Rock campground is open again, as of July 2020, after the devastating bushfires of 2019. For more comfort, plenty of motels, hotels & cabins are available in the area. Stanthorpe has a plethora of them.

Ethic

The original developer is rather intolerant of fixed hangers and has chopped the lower FH's in the past, leaving these newer developed routes unprotected in the bottom half.

History

History timeline chart

Found and developed by Scott Camps around 2000. A very worthy find and addition to the Girraween area. A good assortment of varying and challenging routes.

Routes

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Grade Route

Up just right of The Shark's Fin arete. All up, a pretty serious route, overhung for most of its length. First bolt is hard to spot, about 3m off the deck. Bold run-out from 2nd to 3rd bolt, and again from 4th to 5th, then up to DBB

An amazing line, fairly sustained throughout. The line is protected by 4 carrot bolts (1st bolt is very high; about 7m up), and an anchor with a 3rd carrot bolt (biner + cordelette left on anchor July 2020). It's possible to protect the start by slinging a flake.

This piece of rock is absolutely stunning and offers a uniquely exposed piece of climbing up an exquisite formation. Start by the burnt out tree. Continue straight up the edge of the fin to the top.

FA: Scott Camps

Climb up the large boulder on the ground to its ridge top 10m up, if tall, you can reach the first bolt from here, otherwise a bold move onto the flake to the first bolt about 2.5m up. From here, proceed up the flake to a DBB on top. (Some verbal evidence suggests that the grade is about 2 grades lower if you're tall & can reach that first carrot.)

Unknown start, perhaps using trad gear up to first bolt at 12m? Trend slightly right to second bolt, run-out up to ridge & follow this to DBB.

Shares the same 2 first bolts with #6. Start 2m Right of arete, up to flake, passing 2 BRs on face, follow this flake/weakness out Right & up to Chain Belay.

Start 2m Right of arete, up the face passing 2 BRs to horizontal crack (cam), continue up arete passing 2 more BRs to chains. (Shares CB with #5 & 7.)

Shares same first 2 bolts with #6. Start 2m Right of the arete, up the face to the big flake (cams) then follow this out Left a few meters, up to single BR on face, continue up to shared CB.

Areas

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Boulder sector
3
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2

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: a few meters Right of #12 chockstone - on the right arete in front of the chimney on the Eastern side. Scramble through the chimney in front of The Shark's Fin & #1 route, under the chock stone, scramble up onto the boulder. (NB: uncertain that this is an actual route. No bolts spotted by this author in October 2020.)

Start in the chimney Right of The Shark's Fin, between Block 1 & Block 2. Step off the chockstone onto the Block 1. Up this to DBB.

Start in the chimney - accessible from The Shark's Fin, between Block 1 & Block 2: Step off of the chockstone onto Block 2, up this to SBB (shared with #14).

Start: few meters Left of #13 on Block 2 - a few meters up, off the big boulder. Onto face, up passing 4 BRs to shared SBB with #13.

Start: off a big boulder between #14 & #16. (Eastern side of Block #2.) Step onto low angled slab, up this to DBB.

Start: a few meters Right of #17, in the broken corner. Up this to flake & gear, follow this Left to join up with #18, up chimney to CB above Left on top of block.

Start: on slab underneath block #5. Up this past 3 carrots, to face or chimney (gear), surmount this, chains are above Left on top of block.

Start: a few meters Left of #17 (walk in under Block #5 to Block #6), in the narrow chute between the two blocks.

Great face climbing. Drifting from the face to the L/H arete. Super thin, and run out at top. High first bolt.

Climbing up the rib of "tyranasaurus". 3 Bolts. Chain on top

Whilst the log is there, bypasses the crux start.

Start: Right of Tyrannosaurus, behind the block. Bold climbing up the vertical face to the first bolt at 6m (or step off the boulder onto the arete), up to FH with cord on it, continue up, passing another 2 FHs. Shared CB with 3 other routes. (As of July 2020 there is cord on the 2nd bolt.)

Start: at base of single free-standing block. 4 carrots Up to DBB. The easiest way to get to this route, is to pass through the archway (Block 2 & Block 3) below Route #32.

Start: On the East corner of Block 4, the narrow chimney between Block 3 & 4. Standing in front of #23 (above), follow the huge boulder behind you along Left to the chimney - on the opposite corner. Crux is the severely overhanging start (stickclip the first FH), around the overhanging arête to a 2nd FH, then eases up face, passing some carrots to DBB. (Total # of bolts on this route is unknown by this author as of Oct.2020)

Start: As for SIP, up the arete, placing gear up to the carrot, downclimb to below the roughness, then out Right on nothing, to single BR on face, diagonally out to another BR, continue diagonally across face to a 4th BR, then up to shared DBB.

Start: As for SIP, up to first bolt, then downclimb (or just head out right on textured rock & possible small gear) & trend diagonally Right and up to FH, then up face to shared DBB.

Start: At the prominent arete at the South end of block 2. Up the arete on small gear to BR, then to shared DBB passing a second BR.

Start: on the sheer slab on block 4, just Left of SIP. The bottom FHs have been chopped, so only the top 2 FHs remain.

Start: on block 4, just Right of the chimney that separates block 3 & block 4. The lower bolts have been chopped, leaving only the top 2 bolts remaining.

Great face climbing up the LH side of the chimney separating block 3 & block 4.

Without bridging, up the face past 3 BRs, then right across chockstone to shared CB.

Climb the chimney separating Block 3 & 4 Left of SIP. Bridge using the chimney, up to chockstone, over this Right to CB.

Start: Northern end of Block 3. Stick clip using a bolt plate. Stand on boulder, high reach to first jug, then traverse across & up to first carrot, then up trending slightly left to next carrot, then straight up to SBB. (Total # of bolts on this route is unknown to this author as of Oct.2020)

Start: below & Right of the prominent dish on Block #2 - shares same first 2 bolts with #34. Off the small boulder, up to 1st & 2nd bolts, then trend Right across slab to 3rd bolt, diagonally up Right from here & to CB.

Start: As for #33, below & Right of the prominent dish on Block #2. Step off the boulder & up to 1st bolt (shares first 2 bolts with #33), then trends slightly Left, up the slab to 3rd bolt (a bit run-out), continue up to CB passing 2 more bolts.

Start: in the cave in front of route #1, under Block 2 (pic below):

  1. 17 10m up slab to 1st bolt, trend up Right to 2nd bolt, out Right to bolt belay in cave.

  2. 10 20m out of cave, onto ledge/runnel, up this, around the block on gear to DBB.

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