Routes in Girraween

Start in the chimney - accessible from The Shark's Fin, between Block 1 & Block 2: Step off of the chockstone onto Block 2, up this to SBB (shared with #14).

Short route up L of New Paths. On the left hand wall opposite the layback corner, two metres right of old gum. Up and right to bolt, then steeply to a second. Up and left, then back right to finish at tree belay. Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

Climb to high BR then straight up with increasing difficulty past another 2 BRs to a bolted belay. Tricky slab climbing separated by rests in the scoops.

Start: As for SIP, up the arete, placing gear up to the carrot, downclimb to below the roughness, then out Right on nothing, to single BR on face, diagonally out to another BR, continue diagonally across face to a 4th BR, then up to shared DBB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4, is reportedly chopped.)

This is the second obvious arching crack that encases Charlott's web. The start can be identified by a large offwidth with an eagle skeleton stuck about 10m high in the crack. Follow up the offwidth section before traversing your way to freedom. Descend left from the belay on easy terrain to meet the same decent as Charlott's web.

Climb up the large boulder on the ground to its ridge top 10m up, if tall, you can reach the first bolt from here, otherwise a bold move onto the flake to the first bolt about 2.5m up. From here, proceed up the flake to a DBB on top. (Some verbal evidence suggests that the grade is about 2 grades lower if you're tall & can reach that first carrot.)

Start: few meters Left of #13 on Block 2 - a few meters up, off the big boulder. Onto face, up passing 4 BRs to shared SBB with #13.

Near the edge of the slab (two metres right of Summerbreeze) pull onto the wall just left of the shallow groove to a jug/plate. Sling this and up to a bolt. Left and up to step back right at the top of the groove to a second bolt. A reachy move right leads to a jug and sling. Back left and up to tree belay (well back).

Dick Henderson and Scott Camps April 1986

10m right of Scimitar.

1. Step off block to high FH, up water runnel/shallow pockets to second and third FH. Trad belay.

2. Continue up crack and flakes. Walk off.

Start: As for SIP, up to first bolt, then downclimb (or just head out right on textured rock & possible small gear) & trend diagonally Right and up to FH, then up face to shared DBB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4 has reportedly been chopped.)

Unknown start, perhaps using trad gear up to first bolt at 12m? Trend slightly right to second bolt, run-out up to ridge & follow this to DBB.

Start: off a big boulder between #14 & #16. (Eastern side of Block #2.) Step onto low angled slab, up this to DBB.

Now back to ground level…

Steep and sustained. This is the steep wall down from Millions Of Dead Punks. About 55 metres around the corner from Wading Ape Direct Start from a low platform on the right. Up thin moves past two bolts. Left and up steeply through the middle of the wall past two more bolts to a marginal rest at the fifth bolt. Left and up intermittent cracks in the bulge (natural pro) to the sixth bolt. Steeply up to the seventh bolt and then an exciting finish up a slab to the top. Tree belay well back.

Scott Camps and John Pearson May 1986

Located 20m on the left side of the Castle Rock trail just after you crest a ridge approx 500m from the information centre after the first set of continuous stone steps. Establish yourself with some difficulty in the rough hand crack and up to a rest in the off-width at half height. Continue up to top out then down-climb easy short chimney at rear.

Belaying from the top of this route is not recommended unless you have several very large cams to protect the top of the crack. If seconding this ideally have belay downclimb rear chimney after their ascent and belay from the floor behind the boulder.

Start: At the prominent arete at the South end of block 2. Up the arete on small gear to BR, then to shared DBB passing a second BR. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4, has reportedly been chopped.)

Shares the same 2 first bolts with #6. Start 2m Right of arete, up to flake, passing 2 BRs on face, follow this flake/weakness out Right & up to Chain Belay.

No runners. The next line of holds is three metres left of I’m A Fraggile. Don’t bust an ankle bouldering the start, then straight up and right to finish. Geoff Weigand (Solo) Sept 1984

Start: at base of single free-standing block. 4 carrots Up to DBB. The easiest way to get to this route, is to pass through the archway (Block 2 & Block 3) below Route #32.

Stickclip. Boulder start and up to flake (optional wire/cam), then continue up. SLCD belay or from pitons off to side.

Three BR then a long run out to a BR anchor. Walk off.

Left of the main cluster of boulders is an obvious steep prow with a chalky jug low down. From a sit start off the low jug, blast straight up the nose of the prow.

Start: on the sheer slab on block 4, just Left of SIP. The bottom FHs have been chopped, so only the top 2 FHs remain.

Start 2m Right of arete, up the face passing 2 BRs to horizontal crack (cam), continue up arete passing 2 more BRs to chains. (Shares CB with #5 & 7.)

Follow the wide crack three metres left of Quick Quiz to the tree. Rob Staszewski early 1980s’

Two rusty BR's.

Start: a few meters Right of #17, in the broken corner. Up this to flake & gear, follow this Left to join up with #18, up chimney to CB above Left on top of block.

Start: on block 4, just Right of the chimney that separates block 3 & block 4. The lower bolts have been chopped, leaving only the top 2 bolts remaining.

Located on the R side of the track on the walk up.

Shares same first 2 bolts with #6. Start 2m Right of the arete, up the face to the big flake (cams) then follow this out Left a few meters, up to single BR on face, continue up to shared CB.

Pull onto the high foothold about eight metres left of Quick Quiz, and continue up to join Wading Ape at the first bolt. Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Great face climbing up the LH side of the chimney separating block 3 & block 4.

Without bridging, up the face past 3 BRs, then right across chockstone to shared CB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap has reportedly been chopped.)

Start: on slab underneath block #5. Up this past 3 carrots, to face or chimney (gear), surmount this, chains are above Left on top of block.

Climb the chimney separating Block 3 & 4 Left of SIP. Bridge using the chimney, up to chockstone, over this Right to CB. (2023 update: the chain belay/rap has reportedly been chopped.)

Step off the huge boulder, passing 4 BRs to DBB.

Now follow the track to the summit. Rap 30 metres down the southern side to a double bolt belay on a sloping ledge (or climb Wading Ape Direct Start to the same ledge…) to access the next four routes.

A bit of a mid grade classic. From the belay traverse three metres right to the short, shallow corner (bolt). Step right and climb straight up to the second bolt. Step left and head up past a nob (Evan’s Envy) to a third bolt. Up and a bit right to finish.

Paul Grey, Mike Groom, David Groom and Phillip Waters June 1984

Start: a few meters Left of #17 (walk in under Block #5 to Block #6), in the narrow chute between the two blocks.

Great face climbing. Drifting from the face to the L/H arete. Super thin, and run out at top. High first bolt.

Start: Northern end of Block 3. Stick clip using a bolt plate. Stand on boulder, high reach to first jug, then traverse across & up to first carrot, then up trending slightly left to next carrot, then straight up to SBB. (Total # of bolts on this route is unknown to this author as of Oct.2020) (2023 update: the chain belay/rap on block 4 has reportedly been chopped.)

Just Left of #8; step off the huge boulder, up passing 4 BRs to DBB

Take big gear for the top. Longer than it looks from the ground. The corner crack starting behind the large boulder, up the left side of the giant flake facing the First Pyramid.

Straight up from the bolt belay to a bolt. Then continue up to flake and piton. Up to a second bolt in the bulge, and then easily to tree belay. Scott Camps and Dick Henderson April 1986

Up the rounded arete about 15m L of Scimitar. 3 Carrots to tree belay.

Climb the easy left side of the flake to gain the ledge, once standing finish straight up as for Joey.

Start: below & Right of the prominent dish on Block #2 - shares same first 2 bolts with #34. Off the small boulder, up to 1st & 2nd bolts, then trend Right across slab to 3rd bolt, diagonally up Right from here & to CB.

Start: As for #33, below & Right of the prominent dish on Block #2. Step off the boulder & up to 1st bolt (shares first 2 bolts with #33), then trends slightly Left, up the slab to 3rd bolt (a bit run-out), continue up to CB passing 2 more bolts.

Just Left of #9. Step off the huge boulder - shares same 1st bolt as #9, then out left & up to DBB (shared anchor).

Left from the belay and up to a bolt at 15 metres. Thin past this then up to a second bolt. Up with another move left at the bulge to a third bolt then up to finish. Scott Camps and Stuart Camps Jan 1986

Fantastic clean overhanging splitter crack found down gully from Space and Energy block. Hands to offwidth. Toprope, trad lead or boulder problem, it's up to you.

Start: Right of Tyrannosaurus, behind the block. Bold climbing up the vertical face to the first bolt at 6m (or step off the boulder onto the arete), up to FH with cord on it, continue up, passing another 2 FHs. Shared CB with 3 other routes. (As of July 2020 there is cord on the 2nd bolt.)

Sit start beneath the Flake's ledge. One slightly harder move to gain the ledge then finish direct.

Start: in the cave in front of route #1, under Block 2 (pic below):

Cave Route 17 - 20200724_093019-topo.jpg

1. 17 10m up slab to 1st bolt, trend up Right to 2nd bolt, out Right to bolt belay in cave.

2. 10 20m out of cave, onto ledge/runnel, up this, around the block on gear to DBB.

The slab right of Trev's Arete, below the tourist gully. A tree is infront of the route. Up slab past 3 BR's.

Climbing up the rib of "tyranasaurus". 3 Bolts. Chain on top

Start: a few meters Right of #12 chockstone - on the right arete in front of the chimney on the Eastern side. Scramble through the chimney in front of The Shark's Fin & #1 route, under the chock stone, scramble up onto the boulder. (NB: uncertain that this is an actual route. No bolts spotted by this author in October 2020.)

Go left and up from the belay to traverse four metres left along small foot ledges to a short flake. Up, moving slightly right to a bolt. Push it out diagonally left to a second bolt and then up and left again to a third bolt. Steeply through the bulge to finish. Scott Camps and John Pearson April 1986

Start: On the East corner of Block 4, the narrow chimney between Block 3 & 4. Standing in front of #23 (above), follow the huge boulder behind you along Left to the chimney - on the opposite corner. Crux is the severely overhanging start (stick-clip the first FH), around the overhanging arête to a 2nd FH, then eases up face, passing some carrots to DBB. (Total # of bolts on this route is unknown by this author as of Oct.2020) (2023 update: the chain belay/rap is reportedly chopped.)

Don't let the crack suck you in except for placing good protection because there are plenty of good holds either side. Continue past ledge and straight up and over. Scramble down from the back or down climb to to first ledge and rap off obvious horn.

Climb the crack that makes the Roo's foot boulder's little toe. Laybacking and good footwork lead to an enjoyable gentle top.

From the second pyramid it is possible to down solo back into the gully. This is considered the 'normal' descent by locals.

The right-hand arete of the Charapace wall. Start from the high boulder, clipping the carrot before you pull on. Follow the enjoyable and surprisingly well bolted (relatively) arete. Good beginner's lead.

An amazing line, fairly sustained throughout. The line is protected by 4 carrot bolts (1st bolt is very high; about 7m up), and an anchor with a 3rd carrot bolt (biner + cordelette left on anchor July 2020). It's possible to protect the start by slinging a flake.

This piece of rock is absolutely stunning and offers a uniquely exposed piece of climbing up an exquisite formation. Start by the burnt out tree. Continue straight up the edge of the fin to the top.

Start in the chimney Right of The Shark's Fin, between Block 1 & Block 2. Step off the chockstone onto the Block 1. Up this to DBB.

Up the slab left of Roarke’s Rift past a couple of bolts, moving right to gain the crack

The next nine routes are on the long and narrow boulder behind the Sphinx proper.

The first route on the left hand end of the boulder. Don’t fall off, there isn’t any gear… Bridge onto the wall then up until a few moves right are necessary to gain a small ledge just below the top. Nut and SLCD belay. FA: Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

The next three routes are also accessed from the summit. Walk down a northwestfacing gully to a large, sloping platform.

The strenuous layback corner on the right hand side. Rob Staszewski and Shane Chemello early 1980’s

Start low right on the sidepull, step up into crack. Reach high right for horns and step up crack.

Whilst the log is there, bypasses the crux start.

Up just right of The Shark's Fin arete. All up, a pretty serious route, overhung for most of its length. First bolt is hard to spot, about 3m off the deck. Bold run-out from 2nd to 3rd bolt, and again from 4th to 5th, then up to DBB

This is the offwidth crack in the southern section of Turtle rock. The cliff face is facing north. It is detached from all other climbing sections. The crack starts at flaring hand jams , passes through a small lip, and opens into an off width. Crux is getting through the lip. Top out and easily walk up a Three bits of vegetation remains in the crack. Belay from an excellent gum tree.

First ascents unknown. Reestablished by Dave Os and Jacinda

This route is the first obvious arching overhang route. To access you need to squeeze under a boulder and are met with a wide crack that turns into a traverse. Belay from the end of the traverse and an easy walk down.

A great classic! The definite shallow corner/flake system around right from Scimitar. I would say it's closer to 75m if starting from ground level.

1. (crux) Up slab, into corner, which is followed to a small ledge.

2. Up, then left a few metres into grass, up flakes to finish. [Note: a better way to do the second pitch is to follow the corner system all the way to the top]

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

Now follow the track to the summit of Turtle Rock. When the track along the slab narrows to become a track through trees you should be able to locate a small, undercut crack on the right…

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