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Summary

A sport crag of diminutive proportions! Caution: There's a bit of loose/weak rock that will clean up with traffic.

Description

'Dwarfland' is a small buttress hidden in the forest south of 'Mt Tibrogargan'. The climbs are well-protected & fun, it has that off-the-beaten-track feel and there are beautiful panoramas incorporating all the 'Glasshouse Mountains'.

All climbs have fixed protection with double bolt belays (DBB) for lowering off. a handful of bolts scattered around the top allow toproping of most of the cliff. Proper top anchors are planned so please be patient. The approach reaches the cliff at its rightmost end. For this reason the climbs are listed from R to L (or west to east). The wall at 'No Biggie' & 'Elfin' is north-facing and has sun almost all day. The wall at 'Nadir' etc is east-facing and is partially shaded by trees in the morning, completely shady in the afternoon. 'Like Icecream For Spiders' gets some afternoon shade too.

The top of the crag seems to be a popular lunch spot for hikers, with an abundance of loose rocks helmets are strongly advised!

The site is accessed by following the Trachyte Cicuit and the Yul-yan-man track.

Access issues

In 2017 QPWS plannned for a major upgrade to the tracks and the overall presentation of the low hills south of Tibro. An officially-sanctioned climbing development at Dwarfland was part of this project. It represented a unique opportunity for climbers to work with land managers through official channels to develop a sport crag that is well integrated into the National Park. Climbers had the chance for input into this project and in June 2018 the Yul-yan-man track was completed. This track takes you directly to the base of the Dwarfland Crag.

Approach

Thanks to QPWS there is a walking track to the crag, the Yul-yan-man track. Refer to the tracks image along with these instructions.

'Dwarfland' is about 70 km, or a one hour drive, north of Brisbane. Follow the Bruce Highway north and take the Steve Irwin Way turnoff 60km from Brisbane. Follow this for 6km before turning left at the "Matthew Flinders" rest area. Keep driving and turn left down Caves Rd at the railway bridge. Drive along this road (don't turn down Caves Lane).

As you drive down Caves Road you will reach a gate, no motor vehicles are permitted past this point. You can either park on the verge outside of the gate or back at the Matthew Flinders car park.

You will need to follow the Trachyte Circuit until it joins the Yul-yan-man Track. The circuit crosses Caves Road twice in a loop. Its dealers choice which way you go. The track is well sign posted, once you hit the Yul-yan-man trail follow it for 10 minutes which will take you to the base of the Dwarfland buttress slab, where you will be able to see the first main wall up and to your left.

GPS 26.94302 S, 152.936354 E

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Short but fun climbing up the west facing wall

Corner system right of No biggie

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the dark, north-facing, columnar wall you first come to when approaching 'Dwarfland'.

Stem up the shaft past 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'Elfin'.

FA: Lee Cujes & Neil Monteith, 2000

Start 2m L of 'No Biggie'.

Follow the line of 4 FHs to the anchors shared with 'No Biggie'.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2000

Hard at the bottom, soft at the top. Best served late in the day. The top section is ledgy but well protected.

Climbs crumbly looking short face 5m left of Elfin.

Stick clip first bolt to protect tricky moves off the ground.

Straight forward but pleasant face climbing on small holds. Sustained and quite powerful for such a 'Queensland length' route.

Fun and thought-provoking

Up the luge! A very cool climb up a great feature of the wall

Start in the corner about 20m L along the cliff from 'Elfin' & 'No Biggie'.

Climb the corner then traverse R onto the face and up past 4 FHs to the anchors.

The anchors consist of 2 solid FHs with new stainless hardware for lowering. However, 3 old rusty mallions are still in place. Whoever has the chance/tools/inclination please remove them.

FA: Dan Pit & Scott Lawrence, 1998

Stepped corner system. Several ways up this on toprope. A few loose blocks need to be dealt with before it'll be safe to bolt

Start just to the right of the corner in between Nadir and ‘Like Icecream for Spiders’. Up past first bolt to ledge, carefully past this to second bolt. It was easier to clip second bolt before half the ledge broke off. For full value, skip clipping anchors, stay inside the stemming corner and top out.

FFA: Troy Bell, Luke Morley & Tobi Anna, 18 Nov 2018

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the east-facing wall about 15m L along the cliff from 'Like Icecream For Spiders'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the 'De Shrünkenklimb' DBB.

FA: Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin & Neil Monteith, 2000

Start 2m L of 'Nadir'.

Climb past 3 FHs to the DBB.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2000

Classy. Pity it's not longer. Leave the fourth bolt clipped when toproping, otherwise the lean of the climb makes it difficult.

Start 5m L of 'De Shrünkenklimb'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the DBB shared with 'Bijou'. Consider stickclipping the 1st bolt.

FA: Lee Cujes, Gareth Llewellin & Neil Monteith, 2000

Start 2m L of 'Red Dwarf'.

Climb past 3 FHs then R to the DBB shared with 'Red Dwarf'. Really nice moves in the first half.

FA: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2000

First bolted climb at wall left. Up small face to ledge, then continue up to chains

Start at left of ledge. Scramble up in front of tree, then continue up top section of Mountie Hunter. Might be a good beginner lead.

Sketchy corner at the far south of the wall. Climbed as access to top.

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Activity

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