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Description

Great beginner crag with easy but interesting face climbing. Most routes climb 10m or so of vertical wall before ramp to the chains. Clean falls and varied grades make this a great place for new leaders. Entirely rebolted with ringbolts in 2018 by Safer Cliffs Queensland funds and uni clubs manpower.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

From the Mt. Beerwah picnic area, walk up the tourist track and look for a big fallen tree on the RHS in the steps section just before the track veers left. There are two fallen trees that match this description - the first is perpendicular to the track, the second runs parallel with the track. When you come to this second large fallen tree, head right by stepping over it. Continue down hill and along a well-trodden path through lush ferns to get to a rock apron. Continue right hugging the wall and you will shortly arrive at the bolted section.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A traverse over to 'Tropical Strength'.

FA: 2005

Hard at the bottom, easy at the top. Stick clip first bolt to prevent an awkward fall. Trend past 3 RBs to a DBB on a nice Beerwah slab.

FA: Darrin Carter & Wayne Mieth, 2005

Thought-provoking bottom section. Stick clip first bolt to protect tricky moves off the ground (potential for awkward fall). A straight forward climb past 3 bolts to a DBB anchor.

FA: Darrin Carter, Wayne Mieth & ross ferguson, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth, ross ferguson & Darrin Carter, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth, ross ferguson & Darrin Carter, 2005

A traverse from 'Bitten', back to 'Low Irritant'.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos, 2005

FA: Wayne Mieth, Russell French & Roxy Mieth, 2005

5m right of last bolted route "Bug off". Climbs past dodgy flake to high pockets, finishing at a tree belay on a vegetated ledge.

Better gear and climbing than it seems from the ground. Take a size 2 & 3 camalot to protect top section, and a sling on a low knobby jug protects the main climbing.

FFA: Thomas Gissing & Cris, 3 Aug 2015

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