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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

P1 A2 20m. Free to BR at 4m then thin seam running up then diag. R under arching roof, to arete. Straight up through steep bit then up corner to TBB with small foot stance.

P2 A2+ 25m Continue up corner passing 4 BR. Pass rooflet then straight up widening then narrowing crack with some looseness, to the Fireman's Hat belay (TBB).

P3 A3 20m Pass roof to R and on up thin cornern with fixed KB to negotiate another roof (2BR). Up R leaning orange line widening from beaks to medium cams, returning to beaks as it reaches the hanging TBB.

P4(?A3) 20m Continue up line a bit then veer diag. L (BR) heading for corner above roof. Up corner. A rivet (as for COD) is the last placement. Bolt and groove belay.

Note: bat hook off first FH on P4 appears blown out 17/07/2020.

50m of 4th class poo to the top.

FA Gareth Llewellin, Chris Finn, Scott Lawrence, Ray B. 05/99

FA: FA Gareth Llewellin, Chris Finn, Scott Lawrence & Ray B. 05/99, 1999

Start 20m left of where the tourist track meets the beach. There is a sport route on RB's but the aid route is on (sometimes questionable) carrots. Its not unheard of for the carrots to pop so take care. Once you start the roof it is very difficult to bail. Final straightforward bail option is at the top of pitch two where a 55m rap will get you back on the ground (two 60m essential)

Tough layback start up the corner just right of the aid route. Up stemming corner with increasing difficulty (many ring bolts), then overhang to jug. Tricky section to a right traverse. Steep wild section leads to a rest in a sandpit. Gritty head wall section leading to the aid routes arbitrary p1 belay but it doesn’t stop here in the middle of nowhere - keep climbing ! Go left to corner, then up using holds on the left arete until possible to traverse back right onto the aid line on sandy rock, up into the bathtub ledge. Clip high vertical chain anchor. Amazing pitch of climbing with mostly stunning rock and a little sand here and there. Take 20 draws and long slings.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John J O'Brien, 1 Sep 2012

Traverse right off the ledge following a sandy break (FH) to a tricky move back left to snag the first ring bolt. Crimpy kangaroo point style climbing for a handful of bolts, then a traverse right to a hands free rest beneath the bulge. Tricky moves through the bulge to a tenuous stance. Unless your talk dyno ! Then more tricky stuff on great rock to a shake out before finale which traverses left and up to a vertical chain under main roof.

FFA: Lee Cujes & John J O'Brien, 1 Sep 2012

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