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North-east face

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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: about 275m right of hiker's track. Possibly still marked with "GI" after 55 years?

Climb up to 2 small ledges, then delicate moves up to a ledge at the base of a corner. Up using potholes, then thin wall and layback flake lead to easy slab & tree belay (still there 55yrs later?)

FA: Rick White, 1968

Start: 3m Left of Gambier I - possibly still initialled "GII" after 55yrs?

Up 3-4m to base of crack, delicate moves up to potholes, follow crack up 6m to easy slab & tree belay (still there, 55yrs later?).

FA: Greg Sheard, Chris Meadows & Bob Anthony, 1968

From the Organ Pipes area follow the track left. The well worn track becomes steep until an exposed move is encountered. The fall from here would be fatal. Past this move, scramble over a series of boulders and bushes until the hiker's track is rejoined.

tend left off hikers and head straight up middle of landscape.

FA: Cris & Russell Denny, 2018

An excellent alternative to the Hiker's route. This route has frequent red paint marks from base to summit. A well formed downhill track starting just east from the carpark at S26.89052, E152.88797 will lead to the beginning of the route. From here scramble up easy slabs traversing towards north-west following the marks. The track then climbs straight up for the central part followed by a leftward traverse on easy slabs to a small cave before veering right and up to an exposed and highly scenic finish to the summit.

An alternate finish to this route that goes north at the top (but a bit more exposed) is mapped at https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1ULqnVajNBViUxVymtbjh6jbnrcM&ll=-26.89356304264415%2C152.88713100000007&z=17

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sun 28 May
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