Help
29

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

As Wayne's World is on the southern face there is no sun all day from mid March till early November. During these shaded times it is best to give it about 2 days to dry after rain. Most routes are fully bolted but take a light rack for the mixed routes (I have marked these and listed what gear to use). Take about 10 draws and bolt plates for the routes on the left and right ends. As with all Glasshouse destinations bring the Aerogard. Development is continuing so keep off the projects please.

I would like to thank Height Dynamics for donating the anchor stations, the thoughtful few that donated bolts, and the handful of dedicated climbers that helped me develop this area. Play safe! Wayne.

Addendum: Gone are the horribly rusty anchors! A rebolt of most routes has occured in early 2020 (thanks SCQ and QUT Cliffhangers) and all routes have new anchors at the top (first pitch only for multipitches) and most routes are now on ringbolts. Routes that still require bolt plates have that information in their description. These last routes will be rebolted in the near future.

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

Google Map of Mt Beerwah

Make your way to the 'Glasshouse Mountains Lookout' (last toilets). Pass this and keep going and onto the gravel road for another 200 meters then turn right into Connection Rd. Follow this (very rough logging road), for about 3.5 kilometers (passing the old carpark, if you knew where that was) and then taking the right fork and driving along under the power lines for a few hundred meters. Just before the big power line tower on the hill, there are a few roads off to the right. Take the last one (it's flattest) and park without obstructing the gate.

Car park: https://goo.gl/maps/6kgzoQYHNDtCxLwg7

Coords: -26.900995, 152.873766

Walk through the gate and down the fire break (rough road) for about 8mins until you see a narrow motorbike trail on the right that bypasses a big puddle in the main road. Head into the bush perpendicular and gently uphill until you hit a tall gum. Head rightwards towards the next big gum. Right again along the top edge of the gulley (on your right) for a few meters then left into the bush along a vague trail through some close saplings. Right at the cairn and follow the goats trail along the flat until a second cairn where you head right and down. Head downhill until you intersect a creek bed on your left; cross it and pass the cairn on a boulder to the left. Up beside the dead and burnt tree then right across the ferny slope. After a bit more bush, head up abruptly to the cliff and turn right. Follow the cliff along to the crag.

Routes are listed from right to left in the South East Queensland printed guide, but left to right here.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The following two routes are 75m left of the main wall of Wayne's World, directly above where the approach trail hits the base of the mountain the second time. Scramble up the right trending ramp to get to the base of the slabby face.

Follow line of right trending bolts to chains. The first bolt is an Allen head, and watch the loose blocks above the 4th bolt. Rap off down "The Nut".

FA: unknown (climbed, graded by Wayne & Debra), 2000

Straight up the line of bolts, then at the 4th bolt to avoid the choss above trend left to pick up the last 2 bolts of "Burnt Cookies". Named after Debra.

FA: Debra & Wayne Mieth, 2007

The crack corner system on the left end of wall.

FA: Unknown

Start at flake left of 'Extreme Close Up'. Fairly straight up passing four ring bolts and optional gear (nuts, small hexes) for runouts in easy sections. Use the new anchor, but the old anchor has been left as requested by Wayne for a little bit of history - this is one of the anchors that hadn't completely rusted away!

FA: Wayne Mieth & Debra Mieth, 2007

Start at small featured groove and head up and slightly right passing four rings bolts and optional gear (nuts and small hexes) in the easy runouts. No longer joins No Honk but has it's own anchors. (For an easy multipitch, continue up right to the anchors of No Honk and do its pitch 2)

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

1 17
2 13
  1. 32m (17) Follow line of 8 ring bolts to chains on spacious ledge. A one move wonder, the rest of the climb is fairly easy.

  2. 25m (13) 4 carrot bolts + trad. Was bolted on lead. Supplement line of bolts with small to medium hexes.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

The bolted corner to the right of where the approach track meets the face. Easy scramble past 2 bolts, then things get a bit more serious. Work your way up the corner to DBB above. There is an optional cam placement between the 4th and 5th bolt (yellow alien) but the climbing here is easy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

Easy block hop up to high first bolt then follow ringbolts to DBB. Fun, thought provoking moves. There is an optional med/large hex between 4th & 5th bolt but the climbing here is easy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

1 16
2 13
3 -
  1. 30m (16) Was originally bolted on lead. Pass 4 ring bolts, then some runouts and gear to chains (Medium to large nuts/cams).

  2. 22m (13) Was originally bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 ring bolts to chains.

  3. -m (-) project.

FA: Wayne, Debra Mieth & Darrin Carter (pitch 1), 2005

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth (pitch 2), 2006

Straight up to chains. (Yes, the second bolt of this and Excellent are very close, this may be fixed soon)

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst., 2006

Great moves for the grade. Climb to high first bolt and up face to faint corner and DBB above. Quite runout at the end, take care, but easier climbing.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst, 2006

Follow line to DBB under roof. Fun move off last bolt.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth., 2006

Left-hand extension to "White Castle". Step left at the anchors of White Castle and pull the rooflet

Right-hand extension to "White Castle". Punchy move through the rooflet past 2 bolts gets you to new anchors. Something a little harder at Wayne's World - Grade needs confirmation

Start 4m to the right of White Castle. Stay left of the ledge and arete up top to finish at anchors below the rooflet.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Ross Ernst., 2006

Climb line to chains behind the small tree, keeping bolts on your right. (If the bolts are on your left it is only a 16).

FA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos., 2006

Blast up the mossy crack then straight up the thin face as the crack trends left. finished at DBB below the second pitch of We're not Worthy. Great at the grade.

Start: Crack line left of We're Not Worthy.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2007

You will need to trail a rope to get off this one.

  1. 23m (16) Hard start to RB, then follow left trending line to chains of Party On Dude. 5 ringbolts. (Will get its own anchor soon)

  2. 35m (16) (carrots) Cruxy off the belay then at the 3rd bolt climb leftwards and up to pick up the line of left trending bolts to chains. Keep to the left of the small grassy bush near the top. Easy climbing in top section.

  3. Alternate Pitch 2 20m (16) 5-6 carrots. For those of you who don't want to trail a rope, start as original then at the 3rd bolt head straight up to chains. (Mar 2020: rusted anchors were replaced.)

FA: Wayne, Debra Mieth. (Wayne Mieth, Darrin Carter & pitch 1), 2005

The last route, in the trees, before the ground drops down. Straight up then keep overhang on your right, continue onto chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Alex Cruz., 2005

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

FFA: Wayne Mieth & Wilfred Bos., 2005

3 bolts to DBB below roof.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Max Cruz., 2006

  1. 25m (14) Also bolted on lead. Carrots. Same first bolt as 'Megga Happy Ending' then head left to hidden bolt, sling horn and place gear (small cams and wires) under overhang, pass this obstacle to good (medium) cam and on to chains. 2 bolts + trad.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter., 2005

First route done here and was bolted on lead. Carrots. Up line of pockets to overhang with small cam and wire then on to chains.

FA: Wayne Mieth & Darrin Carter, 2005

  1. 26m (12) Initialled, Start at the "GW" marker to high first carrot. Continue from here to top passing 4 more carrots. Mar 2020 anchors replaced.

  2. -m (-) project...

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

Hard start then easy climbing to fun top section. Start a couple of meters right of the "GW" mark. Up to carrot, then climb continues up and left joining Gas Works. 5 carrots. Mar 2020 anchors replaced.

FA: Wayne & Debra Mieth, 2006

The corner on the right hand side of Wayne's World.

FA: Unknown

Start: Just left of previous climb.

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in Wayne's World.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文