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Description

Clean, dry rock that's perfect for afternoon climbing in summer (even if it rained in the morning) or all day in winter. Mostly sport routes, along with some trad where adequate protection is available. Most of the loose flakes and rocks came out in our hands, but be wary since they are virgin climbs and may still have loose holds.

The grades are offered as a guide based on the first assencionists' experiences on each climb, but are of course subjective and open to change based on other climbers' experiences and constructive input.

There are some great beginner single and multi pitch climbs, as well as some fun harder stuff. Training bolts and anchors have been set up on Soiled Plans to hone your skills if you're new to leading or multi pitching.

All bolts and anchors are marine grade stainless steel (SS-316), many of which are camouflaged to minimise their impact, so you may need to look hard at times. Most climbs can be belayed all day in the shade.

Picnic Rock at the base is perfect for a shaded snack time.

There are a number of projects at this crag that are not yet listed here, so please ask if you're thinking of establishing a new route. Please also respect the flora; it is a garden and national park after all.

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

Take the East Route approach from the carpark for 15 minutes. Just after the start of the final rise toward the start of the East Route scramble, turn left onto a pig trail. Follow the pig trail for 5 minutes to reach The Secret Garden. You will cross over 1 fallen tree along the pig trail, then at the next fallen tree, follow it up toward the cliff. At the end of the tree log, turn sharp right and go up steeply toward the cliff. Turn left at the cliff base and you will enter The Secret Garden. Climbs are named from left to right.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

The proud right-trending arch/roof starting at the far left of the crag. Place gear in the crack on the left of the climb all the way to the anchors. Plenty to choose from. Avoid using any bolts. The FA used a full set of cams from micro to #6, plus some nuts and hexes, but you might be braver. Crux is the last few metres. Bolted top anchor. Rap or belay down to the 1st Maiden Voyage anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

FFA: Mike D & Ian Lim, 2020

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the left wall and follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

FA: Mike D, 2020

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then trending left and up to just right of the tree at the base of the chimney. Climb the headwall, avoiding the right wall if possible or the grade drops significantly. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020

Easy start, clipping first bolt of Maiden Voyage, then slightle left and up to the right side of the chimney. Follow bolts up and then trend right to the Maiden Voyage top anchors, or continue to the DBPG anchors for some extra spice. Descend as per Warrior Princess.

FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020

Free soloed and downclimbed gingerly in hiking boots upon discovery of the area. First pitch is an easy beginner lead climb.

Either climb straight up the runnel to 1st belay/rap anchors using trad gear, or climb a metre or so left of the runnel using bolts, then directly up to top anchors. No need to pitch it out. Rap or belay down to the 1st MV anchors, then rap to the base. Or just rap as far as you can (tie end knots) and scramble down the rest.

P1 - 12

P2 - 16

FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020

Starts at the 1st anchors of MV. Up and veer right, then follow bolts up to DBPG anchors. Fun, slabby mental game. Descend as per DBPG.

FA: Mike D & Ian Lim, 2020

Fun, bouldery 2nd pitch and cruxy start to 3rd.

P1 - 12, 30m Climb Needles or Maiden Voyage to the first belay station. Stay off the flora.

P2 - 18, 30m Enter the Secret Garden, following the left line 10m up to the 1st boulder move, placing gear on the left if you wish. 1st bolt is just below the boulder. Climb up and rightward to the anchors.

P3 - 22, 30m Climb the stiff boulder directly on it's left. Going around to the right reduces the grade to 15. Follow the spaced, disguised bolts up easy contour rightward to the top anchors, shared with Quandary and others.

Descend via Quandary.

FA: Mike D, 2020

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Maiden Voyage.

FA: Mike D, ClaudiuX & Tony L, 2020

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of Meh. Shares the Meh anchors.

FA: Mike D & Josh W, 2020

Easy beginner lead climb. Starts to the right of So Close. Shares the Just Enough anchors on the ledge to the right.

FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020

Runs up the chimney to the right of Round the Bend. When above the chimney, stick to the slabby slide all the way to the anchors. If you touch either side with your hands or feet, it reduces to a 12.

FA: Mike D & ClaudiuX, 2020

Fun multi pitch climb for newbies or oldies alike.

P1 14/16, 30m Either climb Round The Bend or Just Enough up to the Secret Garden.

P2 17, 30m Follow bolts up to the shaded belay station. Crux is half way up; try not to cheat by going left or right or it becomes a 15.

P3 15, 30m Cross the rocky ledge to the right side, then follow disguised bolts up, trending right all the way to the anchors.

Descend as per Quandary.

FA: Mike D, ClaudiuX & Tony L, 2020

Starts to the right of the Just Enough chimney.

Go directly up the crux, at half way, or it becomes a 15.

60m rope will get you near to the bottom and scramble the remaining few metres. Tie a stopper knot.

Update: The FA and co found a bolt on this route with glue soft, likely due to the epoxy not mixing evenly due to being at the end of the tube. So we checked every bolt at the crag again and this was the only bad one. We believe the rain must have washed it out, thus revealing its condition now and not earlier. We chopped it. It's a bit runout now at that point, but it is above the crux on easier climbing and near the top with no ground fall. Just wanted to give you a headsup before you climb it. When we get around to replacing the bolt we'll remove this update.

FA: Mike D & Ian Lim, 2020

Starts to the right of Blow harder.

Be careful of the Monkey Rope vines. The flora here are precious, so please take care.

Descend via Blow Harder.

FA: Mike D & Ian Lim, 2020

Fun climb at the grade with enough to keep you guessing, including where the bolts are.

P1 17/18, 30m Start at either Blow Harder or Pass the Brush.

P2 17, 30m Follow the disguised bolts up and rightward to anchors.

P3 17/16, 30m Choose either the LHV or RHV. Both fun and contrasting. Don't touch the loose rock on the LHV.

Descent: Rap the RHV of the 3rd pitch. Then rap the 1st two pitches of Soiled Plans. Top 2 pitches are slight leftward abseiling so take care. Don't trample the flora, especially the Monkey Rope on the bottom pitch of Soiled Plans.

FA: Mike D, 2020

Arguably the funnest multi pitch sport climb at the crag.

Starts to the right of Pass the Brush, up the groove under the trees. There are practice bolts and anchors in this groove to hone your lead and multi skills, while being in all day shade.

P1 17, 30m Straight up the groove, past the two sets of training anchors, then straight up.

P2 18, 30m Straight up, then follow the shiny bolts that veer off right and around the corner then up rightward between the trunks of a small, bifurcated tree. If you're following disguised bolts, you're on Quandary. However, just before the 2nd bush that you would normally climb below and around rightward, there is a steep, fun grade 21 variant on the left with disguised bolts (so you know it's different) that leads to a separate set of anchors. If following this variant, you'll end up climbing the RHV of the 3rd pitch of Quandary.

P3 21, 30m Straight up the flat wall. If you veer off the flat wall, you bring it down to an 18. Then straight up the grippy slab to the top.

Descend as per Quandary.

FA: Mike D, Ryan M & Brendan G, 2020

Super fun sport/trad/adventure/alpine summit route via The Secret Garden.

More info/updates to come. Some info is tentatively inserted as a guide.

The FA free soloed this while exploring the possibility but will return with a partner to gauge the length and to install anchors if need be.

FA: 29 Jan

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