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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

Easy bush-bash starting from a closed 4x4 track at S26.897070, E152.876763 (20 min from carpark). From here head west through the bush, the rock is 300m away from the track (approx. 20min). Alternatively, walk in to Thanksgiving Wall, past Mosquito Wall. First route is approx. 15m past Thanksgiving Wall (approx. 30min).

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

15m right of Mr. Busy on the slab. The left facing corner. Up this, continue up the line to tree belay.

FA: Lee Cujes & Erik Smits, 1997

Committing start up the lefthand side of the slab to first FH at 10m. A small wire below this is possible. Balancy move to 2nd FH, up slab, passing 3rd FH, to RBs.

FA: Darrin Carter, 16 Oct 2016

Up the rh side of the slab on thin holds, passing 2 fixed hangers, step up & left, using undercling, to 3rd FH on face, thin crimping to 4th FH, then easier ground to RBs.

FA: Darrin Carter, 16 Oct 2016

10m down R of Summer Daze, up the crackline (small gear), past some small saplings, passing 2 carrots, continue up the slab, passing another BR, move R & up, passing another 3 BR's to TB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Oct 2016

3m R of Dicky Knee, up fused cracks, (hard start) passing 2 carrots, to left facing corner, then gear (hexes + cams) to TB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Oct 2016

3m R of Hoover's Knee, start below FH (secure belayer), up fused crackline, past the FH & 3 carrots, then small gear past left facing corner, to TB.

FA: Darrin Carter, Oct 2016

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Starts 60m down past the Mr.Busy pillar. About 15m below right of Reflections.

This route has some poor rock and an abundance of loose blocks and detached flakes due constant north sun exposure. The crux at 30m on first pitch is protected by a single carrot bolt and the belay consists of 2 FH. The second belay is a rusty piton + gear in the crack behind.

The whole route can be rapped, but the tape on the anchors will need replacing. A better option is to exit to the tourist track = an easy scramble or a short bush-bash through thick scrub on the right will lead to the faint knob track.

You will need 2x60m ropes to rap this route. Can be lead on a single rope, if walking off.

FA: Pitch 1, 2, 3: Darrin Carter, John Hattink 22/12/1996, Pitch 3 (extension), 4, 5 Wayne Meith & Darrin Carter 30/07/2004

An easy route of a strong wild environment and adventure character suitable to bushwalkers. Only the first 100m or so are on clean rock and the protection is very good. Solo is an option.

Starts 60m right of Mr. Busy Pillar, 2m right of Break of Noon (S26 53.768 E152 52.870) and could possibly be the easiest route to the summit from the west side.

  1. 110m in 3 pitches of soft rock grade 6 to 10 easy ascending traverse starting through the chimney of a leaning pillar (crux), up and to the right, to a final belay at S26,89742, E152,88223.

  2. Pack ropes and gear and begin a nasty steep bush-bash along the base of the lower shoulder (to east) on mank until flat clean rocks are reached (the bivouac S26,89745, E152,88183).

  3. From here head up to the summit on easier terrain following the northern base of the lower peak (the knob) and through eden bush until you join with the upper hiking route. From here you can reach the summit in 5 min.

FFA: C. Brazzelli & B. Cobb, 4 Apr 2014

FA: John Veasey & Rick White, 1968

FA: Darrin Carter & Grant LeLievre, 1998

FA: Darrin Carter & Grant LeLievre, 1998

FA: Mike Cook & Garrie O’Neil, 1998

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Darrin Carter, 1997

FA: Mike Cook & Garrie O’Neil, 1998

FA: Mike Cook & Garrie O’Neil, 1998

2016 route description: 230m from the base of the mountain to the top of the shoulder.

Start: Starts about 400m R of Mr Busy pillar near the southern end of the west wall. The beginning of the route is painted with a very small WB mark. Up zigzagging over easy rock for 70m or so and bush-bash up through low scrub and over bands of rock to find the line of least resistance to reach the big ledge below the rock face (this is the ledge that serves the Underworld routes). Walk to the right at the end of the ledge, the first pitch was marked with a white arrow but we think is now worn off.

  1. 30m Up a gully to a vegetated area. An alternative to this section is to chimney up a fissure 7m to the left, walk up and right for about 20m, then up into another vegetated ledge to the base of a clean rock face with a tight chimney on the right and a gully on the left. A distinctive feature here is a white triangle on the rock just few metres above. Tree Belay.

  2. 30m Climb the gully on the left up to a ledge then keep on going up a chimney with a hard move past a slabby wedged block to a bulge. Belay on gear below the overhangs (2 big hexes and a #4 cam).

  3. 10m Traverse left past a rusty piton and downclimb with care to a gum tree at the base of the main chimney leading to Shell Rock. Belay from the gum tree. Short pitch to avoid rope drag.

  4. 20m Up the dirty small chimney with hard moves below a twin groove gully. Tree and gear belay.

  5. 29m Up the left groove (choss and mud), cross over and in through the front door of Shell Rock. Belay slinging doors and features.

  6. 20m Out the back door of Shell Rock then up and into a broken chimney and slightly right on thin slabs to a ledge and Belay Chains.

From here bush-bash for another 20m or so to the top of Beerwah west shoulder and walk along the ridge, skirting left around the knob and across to the hikers route. The old description can be found on the Qurank guide.

Alan Frost, Dave MacGibbon 1956

FA: Alan Frost & Dave MacGibbon, 1956

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