★★ Gun Control 14

The first ascent was done just after the Port Arthur Massacre - and the subsequent gun buypack scheme, thus the name. It was also Neil's first ever use of a handrill - the tedium of bashing and twisting certainly controlled the bolt gun!

Starts 12m left of Guillotine (or 13-14m left of the big white gum).

1. 40m 14. Up the wall on big pockets till you arrive at a slab, up this delicately to a natural belay ledge with rap chains.

2. 48m 14. Traverse out right to a weakness in the rock, about 2m from belay ledge, then up through the overhang to face climbing above. Up this passing one FH, then continue up the slab for another 15m to a DBB.

3. 30m 10. Traverse out left along ledge to a slab, then straight across the slab to the prominent corner & tree belay at base of this.

4. 35m 12. Climb up to a big corner, & up this on good rock & trad protection, then a scree slope to belay tree. From this belay it is possible to escape the route via 150m scramble across right to the hiker's track, and down this.

5. 50m 2. Scramble up to the big red cave and the start of the next pitch.

6. 30m 10. Up the chimney on scant protection and dubious rock to a tree belay.

From here, continue up the ridge to the summit & down the hiker's track. To gain the ridge, a fun option is step onto the dome from the belay ledge and climb the crack/flake which has some nice moves with good pro for about 20m, to tree belay in the forest.

Variant finish to pitch 6 (if the chimney is slimy wet):

6b. 30m 16. Up chimney to a good hex placement, then out right onto a small ledge & up the face on good holds, but no pro, to tree belay.

Pitch 1 & 2 anchors replaced September 2021

Developed as a trad crag, with trad in mind. Do NOT add bolts to existing routes.