1 15 48m
2 13 28m
3 14 30m
4 13 31m
5 11 30m
6 13 30m
7 13 30m
8 15 30m
9 15 30m
10 17 30m


The Martian Multipitch. 320m grade 17 50m or so east from right end of Wayne's World, a few metres past a very large burned tree stump at a low point adjacent to the rock apron, as the track gradient starts to rise but before the big left facing corner. This is a clean and safe route to the top of the western shoulder ideal for beginners but long enough to engage the experience climber for a relaxing day out, with terrific top out pitches, all with bolted belays. Rock is great all the way. A set of cams up to #4, nuts and hexes. 10 draws. Slings and extenders,

  1. 48m (15) 5 m east from the burned tree base before the corner end of the wall. Up on easy ramp for 20m then trending left around a steep section. A steeper move around a block and up to a shady ledge.

  2. 28m (13) Walk left and up to another nearby ledge. Climb the rampy shallow corner trending slightly left to a tree beside a detached big block. Belay behind tree.

  3. 30m (14) Step right and up from belay and climb up to lip on featured slab. ( The 90 degree left traversing line is for The Martian Moon Flake Variant ). Trend slight left with some bold sections to belay on ledge behind gum trees.

  4. 31m (13) Thin moves up slab, sling small trees on the left and gear, above small terrace, great featured rock straight up.

  5. 30m (11) Climb straight up on grippy and featured low angle slab, follow small crack line with pro to belay. Good rock, typical Beerwah volcanic features. The next 2 pitches weave through the timbered middle slabs, take care to stay on route.

  6. 30m (13) From belay, up and trending right on low angle slabs (grade 4), sling trees and find the way above to ledge/alcove behind shrubs. Up the chimney to belay above.

  7. 30m (13) Up right facing corner from belay. Pitch is trending slightly left and stays on clean rock. Scramble to belay above.

  8. 30m (15) Up to bushy terrace and walk 10m left to base of chimney. Climb chimney with pro options (or arete on the left) to left of rooflet. Up past shrubbery contouring left, jam fingers behind a polished detached cruxy block. Straight up good pro, final approach to belay from below left, has hidden pro. Beware of some minor rope drag on this pitch, use long extenders. NOTE: if rapping this pitch, it is necessary to stay right (east) of the climbing line on the rib and keep the rope well away from the corner to avoid getting it stuck in the flakes and cracks.

  9. 30m (15) A slab pitch getting steeper, up left at first to meet the faint right trending crack system with small placements. Moss and lichen covering on this pitch, small holds, engaging, last section up past a small tree to a hanging belay. Terrific slab pitch.

  10. Olympus Mons (crux) 30m (17) Climb the vertical crack system trending right, a few cruxy and thought provoking sections, good rock, to top out belay. Mind the stacked blocks at the top. Final 6m use right ramp to escape the overhanging chimney or climb directly.

1x60m rope sufficient to climb the route.

From top belay, scramble up the wide gully between the west shoulder and the knob. The arch is visible on the RHS. Once on the saddle ridge, descend and traverse contours towards the north-east to meet the tourist track. Try to stay on existing foot pad to avoid erosion.

Route history

28 Apr 2019First ascent: Russell Denny & Cris Brazzelli



Lat/Lon: -26.89837, 152.88452

Grade citation

15,13,14,13,11,13,13,15,15,17 Assigned grade
16 [15 - 17] -- grAId


Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

inherited from Glasshouse Mountains





Mega Classic
Very Good
Don't Bother

Overall quality 66 from 71 ratings.

Difficulty - 17

Soft Touch

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade


Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 42
Flash 2
Red point 5
Tick 27
Attempt 4
Target 1

Comment keywords

short hands interesting vertical traverse feet rest dodgy polished steep confusing flake slabby crazy slippery awkward chimney weird sharp shady face easy epic crack dry bad crux challenging hard difficult solid incredible beautiful fun nice brilliant good super amazing classic great rad enjoyable lovely stoked superb pleasant awesome cool fantastic perfect runout horrendous frightening fall terrifying scary

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Share this


Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文