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Andromeda

Access: GH Mtns rolling burn closures - Winter 2024

https://parks.desi.qld.gov.au/park-alerts/24207

Beerwah, Tibrogargan, and a few other tracks in the GH region, will be closed at various points from now through to the end of July.

The burn-off season is upon us and will progress, depending on weather conditions.

Individual closures should be about one week, based on previous years, but can vary, depending on weather conditions at the time.

Closure notices of specific areas will follow here ~ as they become relevant.

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 days ago
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Description

A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.

Since rebolting in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers.

Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.

Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have faded away. Two landmarks to get you oriented are the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' - and the biggest tree at the base - 'Lunar Eclipse' starts here. Climbs are listed from right to left.

Access issues inherited from Mt Ngungun

This mountain is very popular. Stay on tracks, don't poo at crags.

Approach

Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Pass over several sets of concrete stairs (changed following the 2019 track upgrade), till you arrive at this set of stairs with this signage next to it:

This is the last switchback corner before reaching the 'Lower Cliffs'.

Continue straight ahead where a small path leads off from a gumtree tree in a NW direction around the mountain. You will know you are heading the right way when you see this sign (in about 50m).

Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.

The path meets the cliff at its rightmost end, in front of "Absolute Zero". For this reason the climbs are listed from right to left (or South to North).

Please take care when exiting the crag, as some are creating a false track about 10m below the actual track. This topo may help orient you:

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

History

History timeline chart

Initially developed by Heinz Buscher 2010-2011.

Almost all routes were rebolted with EN959 hardware in 2014 in a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.

The climbs on Legends Wall were added in 2014-2015 as a thank you to many big and small legends of the climbing community.

Routes

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Grade Route

A traverse spanning the entire Andromeda main wall, as well as Legends Wall. Starts and ends on the ground, so it can be climbed from right to left, or left to right. Can be done in a single pitch with an 80m rope if you manage the clips well (so as to avoid unnecessary wandering of the rope, and rope drag). Alternatively, it can be split into two pitches (e.g. belay at Worm Hole’s anchors). As it is a traverse, take special care whether leading or seconding, as a fall could result in a body scraping pendulum. The climb uses 26 bolts from various climbs. Some clips should be extended with slings. To avoid the wrath of other climbing parties, reserve this climb for a quiet weekday with no one else at the crag.

The first ascent was climbed right to left, starting at Absolute Zero, as follows:

1st bolt of Absolute Zero – extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Graviton 3rd bolt of Mars – extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of Horse Head Nebula 4th bolt of Alien Encounter Anchor bolt of Asteroid Belt - extended with a 120cm sling Anchor bolt of Solar Eclipse 4th bolt of Gravitational Equilibrium 4th bolt of Interstellar Journey - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Southern Cross - extended with a 120cm sling 5th bolt of Worm Hole - extended with a 60cm sling (Can belay off anchors if climbing in two pitches) 2nd bolt of Coal Sack 4th bolt of More Dark Matter - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Lunar Eclipse 4th bolt of Event Horizon Anchor bolt of Star Dust - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Nebula Anchor bolt of Orbital Tether - extended with a 60cm sling Anchor bolt of Black Hole - extended with a 120cm sling 4th bolt of Dugglebutt And The Bus Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 3rd bolt of TJ Rothschild - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of Mr. Rowland And The 100 weeks Of Awesome - extended with a 60cm sling 4th bolt of The Spitz Roy Massif 3rd bolt of Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend - extended with a 60cm sling 2nd bolt of Old Gramps Reeve And His Bodacious Babe 1st bolt of Do Not Shit In The Woods At High Traffic Crags, then back to the ground.

FA:

FA: simon mercer & Bruce Schneider, 23 Oct 2020

Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off. Hardest part is the start. Just beware of your poor belayer if you can't make it to the first clip! Long fall to the path. The large block on the right, one used to gain the stance & 1st clip, has now come off. This means the route is now a couple of grades harder and riskier. One has to negotiate the crux unprotected.

Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Gina Peters, 2011

Start 2m L of 'Absolute Zero'. Marked "G" but the paint is coming off.

Straight up following the line of 4 FHs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2011

Start 2m L of 'Graviton' Marked "M".

Straight up following the line of 5 FHs to DBB. Hardest climbing is around the 2nd bolt. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Jeremy Danielsen, 2011

Start 3m L of 'Mars'. Marked "HN".

Follow the bolts straight up to DBB, trend slightly left to anchors. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 3m L of 'Horse Head Nebula'. Marked "AE".

Follow the bolts to the DBB. High first bolt, but easy climbing up to that point. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs, trending slightly right, to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Ros Jackson, 2010

Warning Fixed Gear: FH on third bolt loose

Start 2m L of 'Solar Eclipse'. Marked "GE".

Probably the best climb on the cliff. Some nice moves and relatively sustained climbing. Up past a high first RB and 2 FHs, then head L to another RB and up to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, Gordon Baudino & Glenn Ferguson, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Gravitational Equilibrium'. Marked "IJ".

Follow the crackline, zig-zaging a bit, clipping 4 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Interstellar Journey'. Marked "SC".

Easier than 'Gravitational Equilibrium' and much easier than 'Worm Hole'. Follow the bolts, traversing R at the top to the 'Interstellar Journey' DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Sandra Buscher, 2010

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Southern Cross', 5m R of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "SC".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Southern Cross'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then straight up to the DBB at 'Alien Encounter' clipping its final bolt on the way.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Gordon Baudino, 2010

Start 5m L of 'Southern Cross'. Marked "WH".

A difficult move to clip the 2nd bolt. A hold may have come off since the original grading of 18? Regardless, holds are there and just need to be found. Goes well once you know the sequence. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Between the Coal Sack crack and Worm Hole. A hard start, up the vertical face, to 3rd bolt, then easier finish to anchor.

FA: Unknown

Set: David Reeve, 2014

Start 3m L of 'Worm Hole'. Marked "CS".

Easy climbing with trad protection following the crack until it runs out about halfway up. More difficult climbing in the second half protected by 2 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

FA: unknown

Set: David Reeve, 2014

Big tree at base of cliff here.

Start at the largest tree along the cliff, about 2m back from the wall. Marked "LE".

Straight up following 4 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Steve Jones, Ros Jackson & Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH".

Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N".

Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT".

Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs visible from the base. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block anchor is hiding over the lip. . Rebolted 2014.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs.

Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:

Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher & Sandra Buscher, 2010

The next climbs heading left were added later and the section of cliff they're on was given its own name. It's really just a continuation of the main wall though.

Traverse right to left, starting up Brazil and clipping first bolt, then follow the easy line about midway up the wall, clipping a bolt on each climb, to finish up through the last bolt and to the anchors on Do Not Shit in the Woods

FFA: DuglButt, 16 Jul 2015

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Mar 2015

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Mar 2015

Just Right of the 16, #4 route Left of the overhang. Up on easy jugs to anchors.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014

A nice 17 that is pretty easy overall but rated a 17 due to it's (very) slight crux at the start. Certainly at the lower end of a 17.

FFA: Adam Gibson, Sep 2014

Crux at the start giving the climb it's 17 rating. Using the small holds get to the larger block above to make the second clip. Quite well protected and easy climbing after the start.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014

Just left of the two 17s. Up to the first RB, on good jugs, crux is getting past this, then easy moves to the chains.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014

Next route left of: Join The ACAQ And Become A Legend. Easy moves up to the first RB, crux is passing this, then easy moves up slab to chains.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014

Poo is very serious issue which challenges ongoing access to popular climbing areas such as Andromeda, Slider, or Coolum.

Either don't poop at the crag, carry it out, or take the time to learn proper bush toileting procedures. Don't act surprised when you see crags being closed.

Last climb on Legends Wall: easy up to first bolt, over the bulge, then easy to chains.

FFA: Ria Zoeller, Sep 2014

Traverse left to right, starting up Do Not Shit In The Woods, to first bolt, follow easy line across about halfway up the cliff, then trend upwards to anchors on Brazil. Clip a bolt on each climb as you go.

FFA: DuglButt, 16 Jul 2015

The next climbs are located about 50m left past the last climb on Legends Wall. They're long pitches up an exposed slab with fantastic views, but relatively runout and with plenty of loose rock. A 60m rope is advisable to make descending easier but a 50m rope and some scrambling will work. Don't forget bolt hangers.

Follow the cliff line past 'Black Hole' for about 80m. Start at the black tree half a metre back from the cliff. Marked "SD".

Follow the line of 5 BRs trending L (more so after the 4th BR) to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 3m L of 'Space Dust'. Marked "G".

Follow 4 BRs tending L to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB. Quite runout, particularly to the 1st bolt. The 4th bolt is also the 5th bolt on 'Space Dust' and is easy to miss.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 4m L of 'Galaxy'. Marked "SO".

Up the easy slab clipping 2 BRs to the base of the headwall. Clip the 3rd BR then crank through some steeper moves up the headwall to the 4th BR. On up the slab to the DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

Start 3m L of 'Synchronous Orbit'. Marked "S".

Follow the line of 4 BRs trending R at the top to the 'Synchronous Orbit' DBB.

FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010

From the "Adventure Wall", straight up through the waved roof & onto the plateau.

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FFA: Cris & brent, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

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