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Celestial Wall

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Description

Blessed with afternoon shade, 'Celestial Wall' offers multipitch sport climbing in an amazing, exposed position. Standing in the carpark, Celestial is obvious as the gobsmacking bright orange swathe of steep blocky rock on Tibro's SE corner. Even though it's sporty, don't forget where you are - take helmets, prussiks, and a healthy dose of caution! As for gear, all routes in this sector are bolted with fixed hangers, so 12 quickdraws will do it, along with the usual slings and screwgates. It's possible to get away with one 60m rope and two ropes allow you to get down from any rap station (via multiple abseils). The most straight-forward descent is by rappelling down Clemency from halfway house. From halfway house, look for the tree with a fixed line leading down to a set of anchors. With a 60m rope you'll get down in three raps - 30m, 30m, 20m. Always tie stopper knots and carry prussiks when abseiling here!

© (gremlin)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Approach

Access as for 'Clemency Wall' sector. From the carpark, walk up the track towards the mountain for 200m until it forks. Take the L branch (signposted Tibrogargan Picnic Area 1km) and follow this for approximately two minutes (100m). If you reach the bench you have gone too far. 5m before walking over a 'gully' paved with large rocks, turn R on a small but distinct foot track. Follow this track past a warning sign and towards the wall for eight minutes up to the SE corner of the mountain. The track meets the rock at 'Heliosphere' on 'Celestial Wall'.

© (gremlin)

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts about 30 metres to the west of the climbers access track. Look for high fixed hanger on very easy terrain. First pitch is very easy, a little wandery over ledgey terrain.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Starts to get a bit steeper now with a lovely bit of ramp to make you think. The blocks before the corner system may be a bit disconcerting for some. Just head across these gingerly and pull into the awesome orange corner.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

This is a brilliant corner with a bit of a sting at the crux {naturally}. Check out the biggest bucket in the world as you pull back left when you get higher on the pitch.

FFA: Phil box, 2007

Pretty much straight up from the anchors then trend right and on to a large vegetated ledge.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Head right from the belay and step around the large gendarme with the two bolts on it. The step across the void after the gendarme is breathtaking. Route joins the top of Voyager shortly after this. Head on up to the halfway House terrace ledge for more sport goodness. Use long extenders (120cm+) for at least the first 5 bolts.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

Please note that there is a fixed rope heading down and right from the anchor of Troposhpere, this does NOT lead to an anchor that you should abseil from.

FFA: Phil Box, 2007

Move up one or two bolts and move to the L into a rising traverse L and then up to move R to the station at top of pitch 3 of 'Troposphere'. Some interesting and spicy moves but rope drag may be an issue as the route moves through a very large arc, hence the name. To reduce the traverse's spice to 'mild', bring a cpl of medium cams to minimise the risk of a scary pendulum swing.

Start: At the top of pitch 1 of 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box & JJ O'Brien, 2007

Step L using delicate moves up to giant jug, trend L for a couple of moves and then up to join 'C Section'. Very fun; wish it was a whole route using similar moves as the start.

Start: At the belay at top of pitch 2 'Troposphere'.

FA: Phil Box, 2007

Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!).

Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just L of the juncture of the east and south faces. Marked with a white square.

FA: Phil Box, 2004

Steeply up orange rock past four FH's to bivi ledge. Up ramp, leaning out to clip two FH's before committing to the wall proper. Increasingly pumpy moves past the final two bolts sets up an interesting exit.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere', but scramble carefully (roped) up L to ledge to bolted belay station.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

Warning Rock: Death block above 3rd FH

The line of 11 FH's directly above the belay. Probably the lowest quality route here due to the amount of ledges, but worth doing if you've done the other routes here. One tricky boulder problem constitutes the crux. A doubled 60m rope gets you back on the ledge from the lower off.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Phil Box Lee Skidmore, 2004

A long, exciting pitch.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

FA: Lee Cujes

Great climbing in a superb position.

Start: 6m L below apex of overhanging orange wall. Marked 'A'.

  1. 35m (16) At Mark climb slightly left to first FH. Nine FH's up to rap station below steep wall on L. The fifth bolt is invisible. When the way appears blocked by a ferny ledge, climb onto the ledge via its left side And it should become apparent.

  2. 12m (21) Climb R past two close FH's. Then straight up past a third FH to rap station on Pedestal.

  3. 30m (22) Straight up orange corner and face above. At ninth FH step R and up to rap station on sloping ramp. This is the standout pitch of 'Celestial Wall'.

  4. 10m (22) Short and a bit awkward. Mount bulge from L. At ledge on top, rap anchor is on L. A fixed rope leads up and R onto 'Halfway House' terrace.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FA: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn, 2004

All pro is fixed hangers. Max number of draws needed is ten.

  1. 35m (16) First pitch as for 'Aphelion'.

  2. 12m (21) From the belay, take the overhung line leading up L. Powerful.

  3. 18m (23) Enjoy the moves leading up the superb slab to roof. Having a long reach will knock the roof down to about 21 for you, otherwise it's a tricky little bouldering sequence.

  4. 30m (17) Last pitch ends at top of fixed rope traverse.

Descent: Abseiling back the way you came is not recommended and has resulted in numerous stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up from the belay and head right toward Halfway House. Once there, head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004

FA: Cam Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004

FFA: cameron fairbairn

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box

FA: Cameron Fairbairn & Phil Box, 2004

Head straight up from the anchors to the slightly overhung short wall to gain the anchors at the flat top.

Descent: Rapping from the top of Aphelion has seen a few epics with stuck ropes. It is recommended you head up to Halfway House, follow the fixed ropes up and left from the anchor. Once at Halfway house head right and abseil down Clemency. The top anchors for Clemency are beneath the tree with the fixed rope.

FFA: Phil Box & Cameron Fairbairn

Start: 10m R of Aphelion, below first FH. Marked 'R'.

  1. 45m (18) 12 FH's. This long and varied pitch features interesting black slab climbing before steepening into a lovely sculpted orange corner. Belay at rap station on R.

  2. 30m (22) Nine FH's lead up some bulgy, wacky territory to exposed, blocky arête which bounds the R side of 'Celestial Wall'. Finish at rap station as for p3 of 'Aphelion'. Rap off here, or..

  3. 10m (22) As for fourth pitch of 'Aphelion' onto 'Halfway House' ledge.

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Skidmore & Phil Box, 2004

FA: Lee Cujes & Phil Box

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