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Summit Cave

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Description

The central cave containing 'Trojan', Beast from the East and In Between Dreams. Access is via the Caves Route, but instead of topping out on the summit via the crack pitch, trend left through the scrub and end up on a little grassy ledge. From here most routes for the area can be approached. Be careful as any rocks thrown from the summit tend to get channeled to this ledge.

© (djbiggs)

Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 15 33m
2 20m
3 17m
4 17m
5 33m

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. Directly below egg shaped cave and just left of 16mm drill holes. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

  1. 33m (15 crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

  2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

  3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

  4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

  5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

FA: Les Wood & Donn Groom, 1966

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

FA: John Oddie & Rick White, 1970

This route climbs up the left wall of the big corner, it starts directly below the half way anchor there is a pulled expansion bolt as a marker. Small gear and two FHs sees you to the half way rap rings, straight up following FHs and solid gear placements. Make you way over tricky bulge and blast straight up, rap station on the right . 60m rope fine for double rap.

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2005

Head left and up from alcove to generous ledge, 10m of garde 4 climbing no bolts. Clip FH and swing out right off the end of the ledge and into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond deviating left to a short corner and then stepping right to a belay stance. Rap chains. Unbelievable climbing position with great rock and a stinging crux.

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2005

Easily up and slightly left to first FH, then more or less straight up steep wall trending right slightly towards the end. Steep climbing with hands free rests when you need them, turn the last lip and enjoy the easy slab to rap chains. Outrageous position and unique features make this climb a Tibro classic.

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2005

A varied steep adventure on classic tibro features.

Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Adam Donoghue, 2006

FFA: Lee Cujes & John O'Brien, 11 Nov 2012

Heading out left and up. Bolting unfinished.

A direct second pitch to OOTBITB.

  1. Follow standard first pitch (35m 22) onto bird shit ledge watch the drag (natural belay #2 C4 handy).

  2. The line then goes straight through the improbable V of the main roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (4 FH in roof). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with stretchy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out right to finish the pitch (#2 C3 handy in roof) (C4 set .3-3 for whole route. Some doubles handy). A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2x 60m ropes)

  3. Complete the third pitch of OOTBITB (25m 23), the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay.

FA: A. Donoghue G. Llewellin, 2007

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of tibros east face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

  1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

  2. 25m (crux) This pitch traverses right with little pro, to make things safer place a high runner (5m) above pitch twos belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#2 friend with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Do not trust then knife blade in the ear, thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m ). Up the corner formed by the ear with small rps or micros into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB or natural at lip.

  3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Paul Hoskins, 1980

FA: Rick White, Marty Beare & Dave Moss, 1980

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

FA: Mark Moorhead

FFA: A.Donoghue & Cal, 5 Nov 2019

The most exposed climb on Tibro, combined with high lactic levels will have your head spinning.

FFA: A.Donoghue & Cal, 1 Dec 2019

Blunt face between ITTM and Raptures, bullet rock with great gear. Finishes in the Morgue.

FFA: A.Donoghue, 5 Nov 2019

Start in corner 15m right of Out of the Blue and a few meters left of strange fruit. One of the most serious routes in Australia, " i thought i was going to die for sure " Kim Carrigan. On the crux Kim describes being 10 m run out from a #0 rp which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.

  1. 30 m (23) up corner on great rock to natural belay stance, appears to have pretty good gear.

  2. 20m (24) Continue straight up through the overhangs making your way into runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland requiring a very capable and bold approach. DBB. 50m rap or dodgy traverse over right to trojans anchors.

  3. 10m (19) To the top.

FFA: kim carrigan & paul Hoskins, 1980

Same start as for raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

FFA: HB

Bouldery start leading to wildly exposed jug jumping. To start scoot left from the gravel ledge below Trojan about 15m around the corner and clamber up into big cave/scoop. Boulder rightwards past first bolt to easy ground up right trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way right across a balance ledge to Somebody Else's Weirdo's last bolt and then anchor. Watch your rope doesn't get caught as you swing around the arête.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Start 5m right of Strange Fruit. Option to make a belay on sloping ramp (FH and yellow alien). Slab up easy ground past two FH's then move left across ledge to base of shallow groove (below white-is streak). Straight up (FHs) to knobs and a rest. Reach left (FH) then blast out that way up steep wall (more FH's) to gain a hanging ledge before the anchor.

FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Set by Neil Monteith

FFA: Neil Monteith & Logan Barber, Aug 2013

Reachy crux on marble like rock. Same start as for Somebody Else's Weirdo to big knob but reach right (not left) to clip FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) bring you to the lower-off. Avoid blocks above anchor! Basically follows white streak up right side of this wall.

FA: R. Ferguson G.Llewellin, 2006

Beautiful orange rock, tricky crux.

FA: G.Llewellin R.Ferguson, 2005

1 13 R 14m
2 14m
3 15m
4 15m
5 15m

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

  1. 14m (13 R crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

  2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

  3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

  4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

  5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

FFA: Les Wood & John Tillack, 1966

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Sidle out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful underclinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

FA: A.Donoghue G.Llewellin, 2006

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux. Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. A direct start to Achilles, reach up from undercling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

Starts as for The Bends and goes straight instead of traversing into Achilles then rejoins at anchors. Strong bouldery moves on perfect rock.

FFA: Thomas Cramer, 1 Apr 2019

Immaculate rock meets exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head right, hand traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up an awesome orange wall to. rest in a crazy cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

FA: A.Donoghue, 2007

Big and bold, 30 in the summit cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow'. Breach crux to gain corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this. Nine FHs.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2009

Start at the 'T' for Trojan marker. It is possible and recommended to make a trad anchor here for belayer. Go right and up past four hard-to-spot FH's to rap station. An access pitch to In Between Dreams, and a bit yuck.

FA: G.Llewellin A.Donoghue, 2006

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

FA: Adam Donoghue & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Start in the slot/gully left of Short and Sweet. Follow easy crack that sickles rightwards (small-med trad). When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in shallow left-facing corner below a bulge. Above this a #2 Friend or #0.75 Camalot in the undercling slot is optional before clipping a second FH up on bulge. Once established on bulge, head out left (not right up Morning of the Earthmovers) to slopey edges and layaways (two more FHs) and a lower-off out to the left.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2007

Start same as for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge. Head out right (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to a ledge with lower off.

FA: Ross Ferguson, 2007

Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Climb Short and Sweet (two games) then straight up past six FH's. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson (both led), 2006

Unique short climb, powerful moves sees you into one of tibros most private areas. Watch your back. Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into 'bell cave' belay. The hard section is short but steep. One 30m abseil or two shorter ones to ground.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Start as for Short and Sweet. Up Short and Sweet for 20m to big rest where you can traverse left onto slick orange wall (FH). Crux past this on polished marble to second FH, then up to belay in back of cave on natural small gear.

FA: Neil Monteith & Martin Blumen, 1998

Belay-gripping exposure. Out right side of cave roof past two FHs on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up awesome fingers slab on perfect little edges past two FHs to double rings. Rap off. It's possible to combine both pitches and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope.

FA: Neil Monteith & Martin Blumen, 1998

This climb takes the obvious right-leading corner crack about 20m right of Trojan. Marked 'S'. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start (crux) so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Belay off tree at top. A doubled 50m rope will get you back to the ground from the tree. You are actually rapping straight down The Digital Revolution.

FA: Les Wood & Ted Cais, 1966

Start at line of five FHs up wall just right of Short and Sweet. This is technical slab weirdness on great rock. A #1.5 Friend/0.75 Camalot protects the final section to the chain. Move right at top to find rap chains, or if your'e doing pitch 2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on Short and Sweet.

FA: Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2000

The first FH is up on the left wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistakenly use the first bolt of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (further down corner) or the first FH of Walk the Line (further up the corner). Swing up left on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with Walk the Line). Continue straight up passing another two FHs through steepening to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2006

Get stars only for the exciting conclusion. Start this route from the DBB atop My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma. Get here by either climbing Short and Sweet, Big Empty, My Karma ..., or The Digital Revolution. Traverse directly left across hanging orange wall (underneath start of Circlet) passing two FHs until you reach the belay ledge and trad belay for Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (small-medium gear). Go up onto large ledge and continue walking left until the ledge starts to steepen. Behind you on overhead wall is a FH (second FH of Bird of Prey p2). Clip this and continue left onto unlikely terrain and a final FH. Thrilling moves gain a belay ledge in a spectacular position under a jutting roflcopters. Drag isn't bad if you extend a few pieces but you can break this into two shorter pitches by belaying at Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' trad belay. Descent is a 30m free-hanging rap to the ground.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2006

Very exposed steep chugging on wall right of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' second pitch. Starts at the top of Short and Sweet and traverse left a few moves then up and around the arête to a small cave. Now blast up the slopers to finish at Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' anchor. Three ringbolts and two FHs.

FA: Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2000

Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Cross over Short and Sweet (wire or reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling) and head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the all and climb past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up this (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m to ground, or 15m to anchor atop My Karma ...

FA: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up orange rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the wall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

FA: Neil Monteith

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Set by Neil Monteith, 2013

FFA: Logan Barber & Neil Monteith, Aug 2013

Line of black bolts to the right of high definition. Contrived as it’s awkward to stay out if the crack on the right.

FFA: Thomas Cramer, 1 Jun 2019

Crack feature into 3rd bolt of the project. Good climbing with a rare jam crux.

FFA: Cal, 4 Jun 2019

FA: Neill Lamb & Bill Peascod, 1956

CAVE 5

First climb you come to in the cave. Up flakey orange rock on slopey holds, to good move around bulge. Finish 3m up head wall.

FFA: Ryan Castel, 2017

Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FFA: Lee Cujes, 2012

The pockety, left to right trending line 3m R of SYI. Might be 24 but the grades in Cave 5 are all whacked out.

FFA: Lee Cujes, 20 Jan 2013

Puniverse into the Creationism project and slightly more doable than Creationism. Now open, have at it!

Start 7m left of Groundhog Day. Coolum-esque climbing through the roof traversing right. The epic extension out the roof is a closed project.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

Extension to NMR. Rusty hangers need replacing.

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.

FFA: Alex Turnbull, 17 Jan 2013

Start 6m left of Groundhog Day. Up the overhanging corner traversing left to clip the shared lower-off with No Membership Required.

FA: craig pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

FA: Craig Pohlman & Marcus O'Mara, 2006

The right most bolted line in Cave 5. A very tricky roof climb. So steep it goes past horizontal. Bring your bouldering arms.

FA: craig pohlman, 2005

FA: Craig Pohlman, 2006

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