Summit Cave Rock climbing 64 routes in area

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. Directly below egg shaped cave and just left of 16mm drill holes. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

1. 33m (15 crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

This route climbs up the left wall of the big corner, it starts directly below the half way anchor there is a pulled expansion bolt as a marker. Small gear and two FHs sees you to the half way rap rings, straight up following FHs and solid gear placements. Make you way over tricky bulge and blast straight up, rap station on the right . 60m rope fine for double rap.

Head left and up from alcove to generous ledge, 10m of garde 4 climbing no bolts. Clip FH and swing out right off the end of the ledge and into featured steepness. Up through infinity and beyond deviating left to a short corner and then stepping right to a belay stance. Rap chains. Unbelievable climbing position with great rock and a stinging crux.

Easily up and slightly left to first FH, then more or less straight up steep wall trending right slightly towards the end. Steep climbing with hands free rests when you need them, turn the last lip and enjoy the easy slab to rap chains. Outrageous position and unique features make this climb a Tibro classic.

A varied steep adventure on classic tibro features.

Climb the initial 8 to 10 meters of Out of the Blue... but stop before it traverses right. Instead go left for a few meters and clip a FH (long sling). Climb out roof past 3 more FHs to lip, from lip follow FHs up steep wall to the right eventually landing on a large scoopy ledge. DBB.

A direct second pitch to OOTBITB.

1. Follow standard first pitch (35m 22) onto bird shit ledge watch the drag (natural belay #2 C4 handy).

2. The line then goes straight through the improbable V of the main roof and obvious slots in second half of roof (4 FH in roof). A well protected but airy lead which finishes with the leader 10m+ out from the belay. Very technical moves with stretchy bridging, steep roof moves and a few funky jams bring you to the exposed traverse out right to finish the pitch (#2 C3 handy in roof) (C4 set .3-3 for whole route. Some doubles handy). A bolted rap station on the ledge allows you to rap off here (2x 60m ropes)

3. Complete the third pitch of OOTBITB (25m 23), the obvious crack a few metres right of the belay.

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of tibros east face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (crux) This pitch traverses right with little pro, to make things safer place a high runner (5m) above pitch twos belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#2 friend with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Do not trust then knife blade in the ear, thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m ). Up the corner formed by the ear with small rps or micros into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB or natural at lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

Start in corner 15m right of Out of the Blue and a few meters left of strange fruit. One of the most serious routes in Australia, " i thought i was going to die for sure " Kim Carrigan. On the crux Kim describes being 10 m run out from a #0 rp which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.

1. 30 m (23) up corner on great rock to natural belay stance, appears to have pretty good gear.

2. 20m (24) Continue straight up through the overhangs making your way into runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland requiring a very capable and bold approach. DBB. 50m rap or dodgy traverse over right to trojans anchors.

3. 10m (19) To the top.

Bouldery start leading to wildly exposed jug jumping. To start scoot left from the gravel ledge below Trojan about 15m around the corner and clamber up into big cave/scoop. Boulder rightwards past first bolt to easy ground up right trending ramp past two more FH's. Straight up through some wild sections separated by good rests eventually creeping your way right across a balance ledge to Somebody Else's Weirdo's last bolt and then anchor. Watch your rope doesn't get caught as you swing around the arête.

Start 5m right of Strange Fruit. Option to make a belay on sloping ramp (FH and yellow alien). Slab up easy ground past two FH's then move left across ledge to base of shallow groove (below white-is streak). Straight up (FHs) to knobs and a rest. Reach left (FH) then blast out that way up steep wall (more FH's) to gain a hanging ledge before the anchor.

Short and powerful or could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of small cave with amazing featured rock. 4 closely spaced FHs and very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug. The anchor bolt is not installed (there is a 12mm hole ready for e bolt!). Lower off 4th bolt in the meantime,

Reachy crux on marble like rock. Same start as for Somebody Else's Weirdo to big knob but reach right (not left) to clip FH. Another few metres of hardness (FH) bring you to the lower-off. Avoid blocks above anchor! Basically follows white streak up right side of this wall.

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

1. 14m (13 R crux) - Step out left from belay and climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

2. 14m - Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the cave.

3. 15m - Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4. 15m - Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

5. 15m - Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Sidle out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful underclinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

Perfect rock and powerful movement sees you into a hard transition, leaving you gasping at Achilles crux. Climb Four Seasons then break right at the last bolt to reach hidden DBB on Trojan's second pitch (down and right of Trojan's cave about 8m). The Bends starts here. A direct start to Achilles, reach up from undercling to clip first bolt then leftwards up steep wall clipping another three FH's. Swing left for a couple of devious moves to join Achilles at its crux. Finish up Achilles.

Immaculate rock meets exposed position. Clip the first bolt of The Bends then head right, hand traversing through very steep terrain. Make your way around arête and up an awesome orange wall to. rest in a crazy cave. Reach out right to clip a final FH and slap your way to glory or heartbreak up the last little headwall to anchor.

Big and bold, 30 in the summit cave. Devotion required. To start, set a belay on the ledge atop Trojan's first pitch using the first bolt of this route. Stem and undercling out the beyond horizontal roof to lip. Lip traverse right. Up very steep wall to 'the arrow'. Breach crux to gain corner of In Between Dreams. Finish up this. Nine FHs.

Start at the 'T' for Trojan marker. It is possible and recommended to make a trad anchor here for belayer. Go right and up past four hard-to-spot FH's to rap station. An access pitch to In Between Dreams, and a bit yuck.

Climb the amazing line trending left from the belay, up some steep madness and into the mind boggling slab overhang. A 60m rope will get you to the back to the base ledge.

Start: Solo up to the T for trojan and make the move up right to the bolts of the access pitch of Staple It Together.

Start in the slot/gully left of Short and Sweet. Follow easy crack that sickles rightwards (small-med trad). When it ends head straight up to clip bolt in shallow left-facing corner below a bulge. Above this a #2 Friend or #0.75 Camalot in the undercling slot is optional before clipping a second FH up on bulge. Once established on bulge, head out left (not right up Morning of the Earthmovers) to slopey edges and layaways (two more FHs) and a lower-off out to the left.

Start same as for Hyperballad to its second FH on the bulge. Head out right (FH) then straight up on great rock clipping a further three FH's to a ledge with lower off.

Unique short climb, powerful moves sees you into one of tibros most private areas. Watch your back. Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into 'bell cave' belay. The hard section is short but steep. One 30m abseil or two shorter ones to ground.

Start as for Short and Sweet. Up Short and Sweet for 20m to big rest where you can traverse left onto slick orange wall (FH). Crux past this on polished marble to second FH, then up to belay in back of cave on natural small gear.

Belay-gripping exposure. Out right side of cave roof past two FHs on outrageous overhanging rock. Finish up awesome fingers slab on perfect little edges past two FHs to double rings. Rap off. It's possible to combine both pitches and just get back to the ground on stretch using a 60m rope.

This climb takes the obvious right-leading corner crack about 20m right of Trojan. Marked 'S'. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start (crux) so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Belay off tree at top. A doubled 50m rope will get you back to the ground from the tree. You are actually rapping straight down The Digital Revolution.

Start at line of five FHs up wall just right of Short and Sweet. This is technical slab weirdness on great rock. A #1.5 Friend/0.75 Camalot protects the final section to the chain. Move right at top to find rap chains, or if your'e doing pitch 2, make a trad belay on big ledge just before the last steep bit of the corner on Short and Sweet.

The first FH is up on the left wall and is a stretch to clip. Don't mistakenly use the first bolt of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (further down corner) or the first FH of Walk the Line (further up the corner). Swing up left on jugs to gain hanging juggy wall and second FH (shared with Walk the Line). Continue straight up passing another two FHs through steepening to join Circlet at its third RB. Finish up this to lower-off.

Get stars only for the exciting conclusion. Start this route from the DBB atop My Karma Just Ran Over Your Dogma. Get here by either climbing Short and Sweet, Big Empty, My Karma ..., or The Digital Revolution. Traverse directly left across hanging orange wall (underneath start of Circlet) passing two FHs until you reach the belay ledge and trad belay for Adrenaline Gives Me Gas (small-medium gear). Go up onto large ledge and continue walking left until the ledge starts to steepen. Behind you on overhead wall is a FH (second FH of Bird of Prey p2). Clip this and continue left onto unlikely terrain and a final FH. Thrilling moves gain a belay ledge in a spectacular position under a jutting roflcopters. Drag isn't bad if you extend a few pieces but you can break this into two shorter pitches by belaying at Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' trad belay. Descent is a 30m free-hanging rap to the ground.

Very exposed steep chugging on wall right of Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' second pitch. Starts at the top of Short and Sweet and traverse left a few moves then up and around the arête to a small cave. Now blast up the slopers to finish at Adrenaline Gives Me Gas' anchor. Three ringbolts and two FHs.

Bloody awesome. Really well bolted and keeps you thinking all the way. There's an optional large wire or 0.75 cam if you're having trouble getting to the first FH. As for Big Empty for the first three bolts, then break out right and follow the line of FHs leading up and right to DBB.

Cross over Short and Sweet (wire or reach out left and clip Walk the Line's first FH with a long sling) and head up Circlet clipping its first RB. Instead of reaching left to clip the second RB, continue directly up the all and climb past two FH's. Follow big holds leftwards around the arête and up this (FH) until you reach an anchor in a grand position. From the anchor, it's 35m to ground, or 15m to anchor atop My Karma ...

Recently retro-bolted - now a great safe sport route. Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up orange rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the wall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

Superb bulgy rock in the lower half. Start as for first bolt of Digital Revolution then take the right line of FHs through the smooth bulge and up the easier slab finish to shared last bolt and anchor with Digital Revolution. Bolts 2 & 3 are tricky to clip due to small holds and poor feet.

Two bolts up start wall to corner/roof. Bouldery, fun moves out this to giant flake and a squirmy exit to lip. Anchor above on headwall. Reminiscent of 'A Kneebar Too Far' at Mt Coolum.

Starts on the prowl at the back of the cave between "Crikey" and "No Membership Required" finishes up on the clipping jug and anchor for "Crikey". Do a chin up to start and off you go.