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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: 2004

Tourist Track. Slippery and well worn

The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.

  1. Up an easy, low-angled slab with abundant lichen but no gear. Tree belay.

  2. Up steeper, cleaner terrain with quite decent protection. Belay from a large horizontal crack.

  3. Terrain continues to steepen and gear becomes poor and sparse when it matters most. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the pitch, after which some loose rock must be navigated to reach the ramp above.

Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level.

FA: 1973

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