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South Face

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Access issues inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Most 'Glasshouse Mountains' climbing is within the Glass House Mountains National Park. Please respect the environment and other people's enjoyment of it. Access to climbing here is a privilege, not a right.

The 2019 Ngungun track expansion & fortification work is now complete, and the mountain is once again fully open.

Ethic inherited from Glasshouse Mountains

Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.

Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!

New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

  1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

  2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

  3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

  4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

  5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

  6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

1 17
2 14
3 17
4 12
5 14
6 17
7 15

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall . An obvious belay stance can be found to the LHS of this position. Look for the first hanger about 5m up.

RACK:

• Set of BD Camalot C3’s

• Set of Camalot .3 – 3

• 6 extender draws (1 x 120mm sling recommended)

• 4 normal draws

• Set of stoppers and RP’s

About: The route is a mixed adventure climb that was inspired by 2 mates craving some good old fashioned Tibro adventure. It was started in 2012 and finished in 2014 with 5 hangers and 4 single bolt belays. The climb was completed after the wild fires that swept through Tibro in 2014.

This is not a sport climb and should only be attempted by experienced climbers who climb solid at the grade, as there are long run-outs between hangers. Some placements are obvious and others are hard to find but they are there. Retreat will be difficult albeit doable after pitch 3 but you will have to leave gear behind. 2 x 60m ropes are recommended for retreat. The climb is now equipped with 14 Hangers and 4 DBB’s

Pitch 1 – 17R – (45m Mixed) Up for 2 hangers to awkward mantle then keep trending right chasing 2 more hangers. Look for gear past the last hanger then follow the left trending gully to bomber belay. Extenders are a must. Leader should be confident at the grade. First 30m originally led with bomber RP’s and flaring cam placements by Mark. A truly inspired lead!

Pitch 2 – 14R (25m Trad) Step right off the belay and look for cam placement on your right. Move up and sling block, then head right around the arete. Committing moves to establish yourself in the obvious groove. Up another 15m on interesting ground to DBB at bottom of headwall.

Pitch 3 – 17 – (30m Mixed) Straight up off the belay, clip 2 hangers to stance under bulge. Place red C3 and .4 around corner. Funky moves for 4m to the right, clip bolt then straight up on great moves and exposure to DBB.

Pitch 4 12 (30m Trad) A bush bashers delight! Take a scramble amongst Queensland's native flora straight up from belay on easy ground. Take care of how your rope runs and carefully negotiate your way to the wall. Fantastic moves up rock for another 10 meters to natural belay.

Pitch 5 - 14R (40m Mixed) Absolute class! Great rock and excellent climbing. Aiming for the prominent buttress near the summit, follow the line of weakness off the belay trending right. Find 2 hangers. Bust right through tree line and climb arete being mindful of choss. Climb as high as you can then move left off the arete avoiding obvious loose rock above. Up another 10m. DBB found here.

Pitch 6 – 17R (36m Mixed) Up easy ground and left on to vegetated ledge. Climb LHS of ledge placing small stopper, then committing moves to distant hanger (Original 7th pitch Belay). A C3 Yellow can be found a couple of meters above hanger then daunting moves from whipperville to top of bulge where you will find another hanger. Chase 2 more hangers on runout ground to DBB.

Pitch 7 – (15 - 25m Trad) Choose your own adventure! Bomber .4 2m up from belay then tricky moves to ledge. Original line goes to the left hand side of buttress whilst variant goes to the right. Choose either way and finish on top of the buttress. Beware the choss on top!

Direct Finish (19 Trad): Straight up the middle of the buttress on hand jams! WARNING: There is an obvious block at the start of the buttress that looks disconnected and has not been fully tested. Be extremely careful if you choose to go this way.

Walk left for 20m to meet tourist track near the summit.

FFA: Jay MacGechan, Mark Kingston 2014.

RHS Variant: Matt Hunter, Jay MacGechan 2017

Direct Finish: Jay MacGechan, Matt Hunter 2017

FA: Jay & Mark Kingston, 2014

1 17 27m
2 10 20m
3 12 25m
4 12 26m
5 14 28m
6 14 28m
7 15 28m
8 15 30m

ACCESS: To locate the base of this climb head left of Slider gully for approx 50m till you hit the obvious inlet in rock. Solo up rock and scrub for 20m till you hit the base of the wall. Move left up 4th class for 15m till you're just left of the white streak. The route is the first route directly left of the white streak. Look for the first bolt about 2 metres off the ground. The climb starts here.

ABOUT: A neighbour to the somewhat more adventurous Burning Man, this climb offers a long adventure route that is great for beginners or those looking for a cruisy day in the mountains!

Originally starting further left and higher up, the FA was lead on head piece trad placements in what can only be described as a solid "adventure"! However, the start of the original climb didn't allow easy access and a better way was sought. Eventually a 4 pitch variant start was found just to the left of Burning Man which met with the original line on the exposed south face ridge. The route is fully equipped however you will need to sling a boulder for the top of pitch 8.

Take 10 draws and a couple of extenders.

As this is a new route beware of loose rock.

RETREAT You can rap the route with a 60m rope from the top of pitch 7. It is not advisable to rap from pitch 8 - either scramble up loose rocky path to tourist track or scramble down LHS of buttress to pitch 7 anchors and rap. Complete final rap to the base from an intermediate rap anchor on pitch two.

  1. 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

  2. 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

  3. 25m 12 Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground up start of ridge.

  4. 26m 12 Fun moves past the first hanger, then fantastic climbing up airy ridge to belay.

  5. 28m 14 Up easy ground before trending right to anchor.

  6. 28m 14 Straight up! Enjoy the funky moves over the pillar.

  7. 28m 15 Head up past hanger, then scramble through a small patch of bush with option to sling tree (bolts follow after tree). Super fun moves up slab to final belay anchor.

  8. 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

To exit, continue up the ridge (being mindful of the abundance of loose rocks) for another 40m to meet the tourist track where hikers will ask about your adventure in awe.

FFA: Jay & Matt Hunter, 15 Jul 2018

ACCESS:

The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb.

RACK:

  • 1 set of cams to #3
  • 1 set of medium nuts, offsets preferred.
  • 8 draws

ABOUT:

This route is a linkup with the first 2 and a half pitches of Traxion Action, and then joining back in at pitch 7. There is a direct top out with a scramble around to the tourist track but the best finish is up Traxion Action. This climb is mixed and runout at times. A great step up from Traxion Action for those looking for a challenge or to improve their skills in adventure climbing.

  1. (Traxion Action) 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

  2. (Traxion Action) 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

  3. Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action.

  4. (Oppression obsession starts here) - 40m 16 Head straight up from the tree, just right of the small bush to a hanger. Pass some gear placements, an ancient piton and a few hangers to optional anchor. Option to belay here (30m) but best to follow the ramp up to the left for another 10m to the next anchors.

  5. 35m 16 From here climb the headwall following hangers and over bushy ledge to find the next anchor.

  6. Up and veering right. Trad placements to be found around the slab below the 3 pillars. A direct finish goes straight up the right hand pillar or follow the better option to join back in to pitch 7 of Traxion Action. To do this traverse right 6 meters below the pillar and past a bomber placement to the slab of Traxion Action pitch 7. Slab moves up slab to final belay anchor.

  7. (Traxion Action) 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

FAs Matt Hunter, Hamish Ousby, Jay

ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block.

The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession.

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